August 27

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A/N: I just watched Soul Surfer, and it is absolutely amazing! I recommend everyone watch it! I've never gone surfing, though I really want to, so please bear with me if this description isn't accurate.

It feels like the wave is trapped inside my chest as I wait for the approaching swell. It's not an overly big wave, but it's big enough for me. I paddle out to it and as the time comes, I follow the flow of the wave and get to my feet, which grip the board as tight as they can. I balance on top, feeling the spray of the waves on my back and the thrill as I twist my body to cut along the top of the wave. It may not be an overly large wave, but even the small ones are enough to get my blood pumping. 

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