Love at Spain's Iron Cross

40 - Astorga

40

Astorga

Friday, June 25

Makena was ready to hit the trail before sunrise. The sky shone pastel streaks to the east. She smiled, hefted her pack, and set off.

I've hiked nine days straight since separating from the twins in Burgos. I'm ready for a day off in Astorga, and there are some museums there that both Delta and Bayou recommended. I need a break and some peace. It was my choice to pack a bikini. A one-piece weighed more and I was keeping my pack light. But I should have known that men would show up by that pool. If only they hadn't been such jerks. Well, I admit part of it's my problem. If I felt better, I'd use my sense of humor more than my anger. But it's where I am right now. So the rest day is an added plus for me, since staying two nights in Astorga means the idiots I met by the pool will be gone tomorrow, walking a day ahead of me. With luck, I won't see them again. What would Penelope do? She has Javier. Twenty years of friendship before they committed to one another. Okay, I'll meet someone and then wait until I'm 46!

She had finished about nine miles and was halfway to Astorga when she reached the town of Hospital de Orbigo.

Glad I don't need a hospital! I'm just hungry.

The Camino's path was next to the road and she spotted a motel with an unusual name. It was just after nine. When she entered, a woman was putting chairs down on the clean floor that had been mopped the night before. She smiled at Makena and asked what she would like.

"Cafe con leche and a Spanish tortilla." Makena didn't tire of either. "How did this place get its name?"

"The owner worked for an oil company for seven years near Perth and saved enough to buy this. So he named it in honor of his time there. Would you like me to stamp your passport with our symbol?"

"Yes, please." The woman returned and did so. It read Hostal El Kanguro Australiano, and had a picture of a kangaroo with boxing gloves. Makena laughed. "Thank you. This is the most unique stamp I've gotten!"

She enjoyed the breakfast, then packed up. Recharged and smiling, Makena walked the final nine miles to Astorga, thinking about the twins and how she would honor their grandmother at the Iron Cross. She arrived before 11:30.

The albergue opens at one, but I'm already hungry again.

She took the last empty table at an outdoor restaurant, glad to have some privacy, and ordered.

*****

Jordan didn't start hiking until late that morning. The cafe where he could eat breakfast in Palacios de la Valduerna was only 4.5 miles distant, and wouldn't open until nine. He arrived, had his usual double servings of everything, and was on the road again soon. He felt strong, and singing helped him cover the last eleven miles.

He got to Astorga just past noon. He'd moved well but was tired. He decided that he had earned some food and drink. By the large plaza, he spotted a restaurant. The timing was perfect. He was ready to sit. Jordan would take a rest day tomorrow and could watch soccer late tonight. He felt content.

*****

Makena had just been served when up came Marcos the Greek, who sat down without asking. "The beautiful American. I hope you have been missing me since we met at the pool yesterday. Will you join me for lunch? This would be good, no? A woman needs company on the Camino. Maybe you want to walk with me?"

"No, Marcos. No.

Not if you were the last man on earth.

I'm trekking alone. I wish to stay solo."