Song: One Step At A Time - Jordin Sparks
Matilda's POV
The soft dry sand slowly changes to heavy and wet as I ran towards the ocean. My toes reached the waters edge sending the familiar shiver of coldness mixed with a lot of excitement down my spine.
I continue to run until the water reaches my waist. It gets cold quickly leaving me no choice but to lay on my board. I jump off the sandy bottom and lay on top of my board, the water numbs my limbs but they soon heat up leaving the freezing water feel warm.
How the water no longer feel cold after a few minutes is one of the many thing i love about Hartton bay. One minute your freezing your butt off preparing for the next wave of arctic water to smash against your skin, once you've finally prepared yourself the coldness runs thin as your body numbs finding yourself in what feels like the tropic water of Bali.
My arms automatically chop the water as if they we designed to paddle. I paddle until I reach the shallow water of the sand bar. Everyone surfs at the sand bar it the ideal sport to surf, the waves a perfect, you can touch the bottom, which actually helps a lot more than expected the only bad thing is you have to paddle back through the deep dark channel of water between the sore and the sand bar.
My thoughts are interrupted by the sight of fairly decent wave. I spin my board around and start to paddle. I feel the wave hit my body and I start to give myself the pep talk my instructor gives every time you catch a wave.
'Paddle hard, paddle hard, paddle hard, and the wave hits, four more paddles, hands inline with shoulders, lift up and pop up jump' I instructed myself through the steps.
I'm flying down the step of the un-crashed wave, I slowly twist my body to the left bringing my shoulders inline with the nose of my board, leaning to the left with my back hunched, changing the direction of my board.
I start to carve up and down the slope of the wave before I hit the sore, pick up my board and paddle out again.
I continue to catch amazing waves and deliver my tricks better then ever before, too bad Eliza isn't here to see this! Eliza and I have been best friends since we were eight, we did surfing lessons with a guy named Tommy here in Hartton Bay. We've been surfing together ever since. Eliza is better than me and sometimes it's a good thing because I can learn from her but most if the time she is just up herself and is always bragging. It doesn't really bother me because she has something that is worth bragging about. I don't know how I'm going to surf for two whole weeks before she finishes school and gets her ass over here! Surfing alone just isn't the same.
I've been surfing for around forty five minutes so I decided to catch one last wave. I see the formation of a wave way out the back, I watch it grow bigger and bigger before realising it will crash before it reaches me. I want this wave so badly, I slip from sitting position to laying on my board. I frantically paddle towards the wave that I'm actually scared to catch it, its probably the biggest wave I've caught yet. I think about passing the wave and catching something smaller but I never back down from a challenge.
I reach the giant of a wave and turn around feeling quite uncomfortable, I force my arms to move and I go through the routine I have used over and over again until I'm up on the board.
I begin my tricks acing them perfectly.
'Wow I'm on fire today!' I thought to myself. I only just reached the sand bar and had already attempted all my tricks. I remember trying a 360 last summer but failed. That's it I'm going to try it again.
I cut up the wave with great force, leaving my board and myself flying through the air. I reach down lifting my board as close to my body as I can. My board spins rapidly before I know it I'm gliding but through the water.
'Did I just land a 360? I did! I did it!!' My adrenalin going crazy at the though of what I just achieved. I throw my fists through the air whilst gliding the last couple of meters until I hit the sore.
I bend down and pick my board off the mud. I look to my left seeing the same group of guys still standing in the sand. I carry my board to my pile of cloths on the beach my eyes never leaving the guys. I noticed the one stand to the back of the group looking in my direction, he probably wasn't even looking as me but I still felt uncomfortable. I forced myself to look away reaching for my singlet top, pulling it over my head before grabbing my stuff and heading towards home.
I enter the house after hosing down my board.
"Tilda is that you?" I hear a voice call from the kitchen, mum.
"Yeah it is"
"Perfect timing, dinner is ready come set the table" ugh I knew I should have taken the long way home.
"So how was your surf?" My mother asks me between her mouthfuls of food
"Really good actually, I landed a 360 for the first time!" I replied in a voice that didn't even sound like it came from my mouth.
"No you didn't, your lying" Pixie piped up
"Ah no I'm not, too bad you weren't there to see it" I snapped getting slightly annoyed
"Well I wasn't so I don't believe you" a series of me neithers carried around the table. Are these people really my family? They really think I'm lying.
"If it makes you feel better I believe you" my big brother Hamish whispered to me from across the table.
"What?!"
"You heard me, last summer you almost landed one so I have full faith in you, i believe that you did land it" WHAT! I almost choke on my food, sure we don't hate each other but when he was younger around 16-17 Hamish and I didn't really have a relationship, yes we are siblings but he just shut everyone out and lock I'm self in his room only coming out to eat, I think it's pretty normal in teenage boys. Once he met Jodie, Jodie. This was the perfect time to change the subject before someone says something stupid hint my mother.
"So when is Jodie coming?" Hamish met Jodie at one if his friends party and I guess they just fell in love and have been dating ever since. Jodie's lovely she like the sister I never had, sorry Pixie.
"Two weeks I think, around the same time as Eliza" Eliza, I have to call her tell her everything.
"Thank you for dinner mum, I have to go call Eliza" I dismiss myself before heading to the dishwasher and going to my room.
I take my phone out my bag and flop into the bed. Eliza picks up on the second ring.
"Hey Tilds what's up?" Why does she always call me Tilds out if all the nicknames, Tildy, Tilda, Tilly, Tild even Til she's chooses Tilds and I hate it.
"I have something super exciting to tell you!"
"Now I'm interested, go on tell me"
"I LANDED A 360 TODAY, FOR THE FIRST TIME!!!" I yell in my phone
"OH MY GOD I WISH I COULD HAVE BEEN THERE TO SEE!" She screams back. I hear a faint voice in the background
"Lizey, dinners ready" the voice belongs to her mum Cathy.
"Look I better go....... Oh and Tilds?"
"Yeah"
"Don't steal all the good waves, save some for me" I laugh and hang up the phone.
I decide to have an early night after raiding Facebook for an hour. I pull back the soft white sheets of my bed and grab my phone. I set my alarm for 6:30am, it's the best time to go for a run and an early morning surf. I place my phone back on my bedside table and switch off the lamp.
Within minutes my mind is flooded with the events of today, the beach, the wave, the 360, my brother telling me he has faith in me and the mysterious boy staring at me down the beach.
(Thanks for reading, I would really appreciate some help with getting more people to read. Even just telling you friends to have a look will me much appreciated, I hope you like this chapter an yeah that's all from me) :)
