Below the Radar - Cyprus Summer of '74

Chapter 18 : History Lessons (Wonderful World)

Horseshoe Hike Day 3 - Signpost to Phini

Two hours later G was leading his team steadily onward, making good progress, but still having fallen behind the other BG team as Gordy drove them forward. They had been the second and third teams to leave camp, just in front of another gaggle of teams preparing to leave and though a couple of teams had since passed them, they were both making good time.

They reached and passed through the first checkpoint at Kouka 30 minutes later, all log books duly stamped by the marshal, slightly bemused at seeing both the self-proclaimed and proud backmarker teams from BG setting a healthy pace near the front.

Alex and his team moved into a sparse pine forest and kept heading upwards, following a rough path as it weaved its way over the rocky earth. Without stopping for more than five minutes at any time for a quick breather and drink they pushed on. Attempts at conversation were limited by the constant need to keep heads down and ensure each foot step was placed carefully amid the rock and stone strewn ground. The rocky, uneven and loose surface waited silently to twist and turn any unsupported ankle or lazily placed foot. For the next hour the team slithered snake like, silently upward in a single line in this manner. Will, who had now taken over at the front watched the switch back path closely, choosing each step with care and his four team mates followed, heads bowed, eyes only for the path and the pair of boots two metres in front.

As they left the pine forest the terrain levelled out and some 300 yards ahead they spotted the second checkpoint of the day. Located at the edge of an old cemetery, the marshal manning the checkpoint sat on the tailgate of his dust covered Land Rover. Just beyond that they could see a large group who had stopped for lunch, the bulk of Johnny H making him clearly visible among them.

With the regulation 'Cemetery' stamped in their log books, they joined the others BG lads, dropped their packs and stretched out, flexing aching backs to ease the strains from the long climb. No-one was very talkative, interaction limited to acerbic comments about the day so far and primarily the last hours climb. Most of the comments were aimed toward Dan about what was now seen as his stupid 'effin idea to finish before the boarder team from Akrotiri. They may have all been eager to take on his idea some five hours ago, but were now only too happy to throw it back in his face.

"Great idea Dan, just what I needed today, a bloody race up the mountain."

"Hey, you were up for it just like everyone else Ryan, quit your whinging," threw back Rick. "It was always going to be a tough day. This way we arrive at camp earlier and have more time to chill out. Bonus being we'll have beaten the lah de dah crew and we can give them some stick for a change."

"Hey, we're not there yet. Whatever we think about them, those guys motor when they get going. Come on, we've had our 15 minutes, let's crack on and let these guys get their breath back". Johnny H got to his feet and picked up his heavy rucksack, swirling it easily by the straps round onto his back as he spoke, leaving little room for disagreement.

The rest of his team followed. Soon only their backs and a small trail of dust was visible as they headed off up the path. With luck they'd get to camp in another couple of hours, Alex and his team hopefully only 30 minutes or so behind.

Twenty minutes after stopping, another simple lunch rapidly dispatched, Will silently picked up the lead and headed out. Three more teams had just arrived at the checkpoint, also deciding to take a break and were spreading out across the dry rocky earth. As they left the small clearing Alex looked back. Still no sign of Roger, Tristan and the team of six from Akrotiri.

They pushed hard for the next hour along a decent trail that took them through a small apple orchard and then up and across steep slopes full of Cypress trees. Dan took his turn leading, deciding that as it was his idea, he had better make sure it worked. He knew he'd be mullered by the guys if they were overtaken by Roger and Tristans' mob before they got to Phini and all this effort turned out to be wasted. 

He needn't have worried. They reached the outskirts of Phini village mid-afternoon, joining a narrow mainly tarmac road for the short walk to the school, the playground of which was doubling as their camp site for the night. At a small junction near the village centre they stopped by a small group of road signs that had clearly been peppered with shotgun pellets, remaining mainly intact despite the many holes, but also covered with spray painted slogans, prompting a puzzled look from Kenny.

"Bloody hell, look ..... all that Grivas, EOKA-B and Enosis stuff again. What is that all about – I mean I know sort of, it's about Cyprus independence and stuff,  but that's about it ...... anyone?"

Kenny looked around, while G and Dan just looked back blankly and shrugged.

Will gave it a go. "Well, sort of, but not really mate. Enosis is about making Cyprus part of Greece, I think, but peacefully. EOKA-B is different. They're a group of sort of freedom or guerrilla fighters or terrorists, who have been trying for years to make it happen. They are more extreme and violent". Finishing his partial, simplistic explanation Will looked to Alex. "You've been here much longer than any of us Alex. Is that about right?"

"Pretty close, I reckon Will. Grivas, well he was born in Cyprus, but then went to Greece and then came back again to lead EOKA and then eventually EOKA-B. He actually died in January this year, down in Limassol somewhere. Archbishop Makarios or 'Black Mak', is obviously a Cypriot too and the President. He used to want Enosis, but now wants Cyprus to be..... well ....to be for all Cypriots. Way back I think him and Grivas were mates, but they fell out big time. Or something like that anyway." Alex shrugged.

"So all that EOKA-B stuff is finished now then, if Grivas is dead?" Kenny persisted.

"Don't think so, it's been going on for yonks. Loads of nasty stuff kicked off back in the fifties and sixties, back when Cyprus was a British Colony. Mainly between the Greek Cypriots and Britain, but whoever's been in charge the Turkish Cypriots always seem to get the rough end of it. So, that's why we've had British Army and Royal Air Force bases out here for ages, sticking our noses in and pissing off all the locals. Anyway, who knows what'll happen next. Interesting fact though boys, Grivas himself used to hide out here in these very mountains', way back when with his fighters".

"Oooh, bloody hell, I'm impressed Alex. You should have no problem with your History GCE – Professor Berresford!" Dan had been taking it all in and clapped mockingly.

Alex shook his head and smiled, bowing low as the rest joined in. "Well you did ask – always happy to try and help educate you bunch of thicko's. Anyway, there's a lot more to it than my little Jack and Jill version of the messy recent history of Cyprus."

They rest eventually continued on down the narrow and rutted road as Kenny stood still for several moments, looking back in silence at the battered road sign before turning and trudging after his mates.