AM20: The Japan Journals

Day 69

June 8th While on my way to Dogo Onsen, I saw my phone persistently buzzing on the mount. I wasn't able to answer, at the time, but it turned out to be Jinshu. He must have been returning my text from yesterday. In the midst of my morning route, I couldn't help but be distracted by the plight that Jinshu's going to present me. Whatever it is, it'll have to wait.Today, I'm going to soak up some R&R at the Dogo Onsen. I was told that this place is one of the oldest (and arguably, the best) Onsen in the country. It was built over a hundred years ago and boasts a pristine reputation. Upon arriving at the lot by the Onsen, it was easy to see why. The massive structure is like something out of a popular anime. The larger-than-life building houses an entire complex of attractions, with the bathhouse as the base of the operations. In all, the Onsen is three stories tall with various baths on each level. I opted for the public (albeit, gender-segregated) bath on the first floor to start my soaking session.Stepping into these bathhouses removes more than just your clothing. It reveals your comfort around complete strangers, as these bathhouses unveil every inch of your being. For the uninitiated, guests must be nude to use these bathhouses. I can't quite explain the intricacies behind the decision, other than its a "cultural" thing. This is how they've enjoyed bathhouses and that's how it stays. Call me rude, but the saying "when in Rome", shouldn't apply in this case. Regardless, I meandered about the different dipping spots, enjoying a temporary soak. As you know, these hot springs are intended to be enjoyed momentarily. There's no way these things replace a traditional jacuzzi lol. For this reason, there are washrooms nearby to rinse yourself off with cold water and to get cleaned up. I must have been to the showers every 10-15 minutes, as the bubbling spring water was too much for my pale aura. After an hour of absorbing the natural minerals of the first floor, I grabbed my supplied yukata and ascended up to the 2nd floor of the building. On the 2nd floor is the Tama no Yu (the Bath of Spirits). This area is smaller than the first floor but has regal decor. While sampling the different baths, I was told by another visitor that this Bathhouse was once a popular spot for the Imperial family. To further exemplify that, there are a few different tour packages that you can purchase as you enter the facility. Some of those include a guided tour of old artifacts and areas that were once designated for the Emporer and his family.I chose to enjoy the full soak, so the imperial worship will have to wait. The minutes melt away in these baths. Any concern I have outside of this place is just an escape from my pores. The recurring theme of this week has been fatigue, as the weeks on the road have finally caught up to my body. My sore butt finally got company in the form of stiff legs, neck, and back. No amount of stretching could resolve my rigid frame. To say that a day at the onsen was needed is a bold understatement. While I didn't pay for that kind of tour, I did see glimpses from my jaunt between floors. I did notice a number of homages to a bird called a heron. While settling into the rest area on the top floor, I was informed of the significance behind the heron. According to local legend, an injured heron was healed by the revitalizing spring waters here. Much is made of the natural minerals in the scalding water as if it's a healing force. Whether it's a placebo effect or not, there does seem to be a revitalizing effect with these hot springs. My steely joints do seem to be have been greased and some movement has been restored to the sore areas. I was a crass opportunist at this Onsen, making the most of every bath that I paid for. The warm, persistent flows of water eventually wore away the fear of being nude. I suppose being submerged in hot water helps me forget any insecurity I might have had. Quite frankly, any dwindling hiccup in my subconscious evaporated from this pool of bubbling water. I finished my visit to Dogo Onsen with a nice snack and a well-paid nap on the 3rd floor. I'm not one to remain inactive for stretches of time, but a place like this brings out the sloth in all of us. I was in no hurry to return to the DZed, or any of my tattered belongings. Before the sun began to recede under the horizon, I showered one last time and returned to the bike. To say that my visit to Dogo Onsen was rejuvenating would be an understatement. I've made pitstops to other Onsens on this trip, but none of them matched the resting power of Dogo. I don't know what constitutes the supreme reputation of this place, but it's hard to deny the royal significance behind it. Like many tropes about Japan, a place like the Dogo Onsen is a physical embodiment of the popular stereotypes. It served its purpose (in spades) and cleansed every corner of my body. Tomorrow, I'm going to meet my travel buddy and traverse part of the Shikoku Pilgrimage. Before I call it a night, I made sure to complete my game of phone tag with Jinshu and find out what he was contacting me about. I'm still processing his request, so I'm going to sleep on it and tell you more tomorrow ;)Thanks and I'll see you soon!-Ayden