AM20: The Japan Journals

Day 46

May 16th

The Skyline painted a picture of this island's landscape but veiled the unique history of its inhabitants. Over the last few days, my curiosity about the backstory of this place has intensified. So much of their culture is inherently Japanese, but with a different interpretation.

I've heard great things about the History Museum on the island, so I'm eager to see if it can answer my inquiries about Sado. After a brief morning tea and breakfast with Rizumu, I sparked the DZed's engine and made my way to the Museum.

The museum is located in Mano-Shinmachi, which is about a half-hour from Ogi. The straight route north was mostly along the coastline, which only provoked more questions about this place.

Upon entering the museum, I was informed that some exhibits are not listed in English. Even in their History Museum, there's an err of mystery about this place to foreigners. Some of the exhibits are significant events, re-animated. I quickly realized that the museum focused on three different historic figures. All of them are from different backgrounds and eras but they have one thing in common, they were all sent to exile on this island by the Japanese Government.

Those gentlemen were Juntoku, Nichiren, and Zeami. Juntoku was a former Emperor of Japan, who was sent to Exile here after a failed attempt to reshape the country's government, at the time.

Nichiren was a Buddhist priest who was exiled after false rumors were spread about him, and his beliefs. His teachings spread throughout the island, quickly establishing him as a prominent faith leader on the island.

Finally, there's Zeami. He was a well-known actor and playwright who was sent to exile after a disagreement with a prominent Shogun. He was famous for being a successful actor/writer in Noh, which was a popular theater art form.

All three men had to endure several different challenges on the island. Everything from starvation to a possible invasion from the Mongols threatened their everyday existence. These men highlight the island's perseverance and self-reliant personality.

It's easy to think of this place that houses an amazing musical group, but when you take a glimpse at this place's history, it's easy to see why their culture is inherently unique.

Unlike their mainland counterparts, Sado Island has had to withstand many different threats from the outside world. When foreign armies came to fight, they usually walked the shores of Sado before Honshu. When inclement weather blew in, the residents here had to overcome it first. Beneath the various terrain and artistic aura, there's a layer of resolve on the shores of Sado. An amount that few can relate to.

I proceeded to finish my Museum tour with an exhibit dedicated to Sasaki Shodo. He was an artist that sculpted many pieces from various metals. If this visit has taught me anything, it's that Sado Island is a place of defiant, creative people who go against the grain of society.

The residents of Sado had to absorb Japanese culture and adapt it to their liking. The rebellious spirit of this island wasn't the intention, rather, cultivated through centuries of rejection. This place was known for exiles and had to interpret its version of reality. Like a creative fusion chef, Sado Island took a classic, cultural dish and added flavors that can't be found anywhere else.

Despite having lingering questions, the museum visit gave me a different perspective on this place. I wish the museum had more information in English, as the stories behind these famous exiled residents were a bit vague. Perhaps I'll have to do some reading on my own, as this island's history goes far deeper than the exhibits I witnessed today.

During my trip back to Ogi, I started to ponder what led this island to be the dreaded "place of exile". Was it simply the distance to the mainland, and its sheer mass? Did its proximity to continental Asia (and potential invaders) tempt the government into using it for prisoners and the exiled?

The logic behind those reasons is valid, but maybe there's something else to it. I do know that gold was eventually discovered here, prompting a change of fortune (no pun intended) for Sado. Maybe the charm behind Sado is in its lopsided fortunes and detached mystique. Regardless, it's a culture that I was not aware of before this trip but will learn more about in the future.

And with that, my day culminates with a visit to the studio. The final hours of daylight will be spent creating, like many artisans of Sado's past have before me.

Speaking of gold, I'll be taking a trip to their old gold mine tomorrow. Maybe a trip to the mine will answer some of my remaining questions from the museum.

Thanks and I'll see you soon!

-Ayden