AM20: The Japan Journals

Day 62

June 1st

The dawn of my 3rd month crept up, like a stealth shinobi. It's hard to believe that I've been in Japan for nearly 9 weeks. Traversing this island nation has been a battle of extremes, in many senses. From the snow-capped mountains of Hokkaido to the tide-built Sand Dunes of Tottori, I feel like I've seen about every kind of climate that you could imagine. No matter what I encounter next, I'll never lose sight of the variety that this island nation provides.

Today, I'll be heading to the Yamaguchi prefecture and checking out the town of Hagi. While the sun was still climbing its way up, I took the initiative and did some digging on what Hagi has to offer. From what I learned, this town played a pivotal role in the countries transformation from a feudal land to an industrial heavyweight. Not to mention, it has a cool samurai district that you can walk through.

It's a good thing that I was an early riser because the route to Hagi looks to be a hefty one (over 4 hours). Fortunately, the entire trip will be accompanied by the coastal breeze from the west. The view from that direction was beautiful, but there's not much to add about today's ride. It was coastal views, splattered by dead bugs on my goggles.

Upon arriving in Hagi, I made a B line to the nearest restaurant. Nothing devours nutrients like an ass aching ride. I opted for a nice yakitori (skewered chicken) establishment. To order at the restaurant, they gave me a tablet with a variety of chicken pieces and beverages to choose from. Everything from chicken legs to the skin can be selected here. For the sake of my protein-filled curiosity, I decided to try a few skewers with different organs and meat.

I've seen establishments like this all over the country, but haven't had to chance to indulge in a proper one, until now. The organ meat is a bit gamey, with hints of seasoning sprinkled on the flesh. The grilled texture seers the flavor with a smokey aftertaste. I'm a sucker for grilled foods, so this cuisine was right up my alley.

Every part of the bird was consumed, initiated by the push of a tablet. It was one of the easiest meal experiences I've ever witnessed and one that I wish was more available, stateside.

After lunch, I found a nearby hotel and asked for tips on things to see in the Samurai district. The staff told me that the castle was reduced to mere rubble, but the nearby neighborhood that housed the Samurai is impeccably preserved. They passed on some notes about museums in the area and gave me the best way to get there.

It took minutes to reach the old district, but it was clear that I would be exploring the area on foot. Walking through the neighborhood, I came upon more info on the history of this place. At its prime, Hagi was a mighty castle town during the Edo Period of the country. As a fortress for a powerful clan (Mori clan), Hagi was the place was considered to be one of the wealthiest and affluent cities in the country.

Because of their influence over the region, the Mori Clan played a role in the countries transition to the Meiji Restoration period. It appears that the city was structured with two distinct areas in mind- the castle and the nearby neighborhood.

The castle was home to the ruling family, along with their closest confidants. In the neighborhood, everyone from the Samurai to merchants took vacancy. Ironically, it was the homes of the lower class warriors and craftspeople that survived, as the castle has been in constant decay.

One notable person to have lived in this neighborhood was Kido Takayoshi. He was a statesman that played a prominent role in thrusting the country into the era of the Meiji Restoration. Amongst many accomplishments, he played an instrumental role in convincing the Emperor to move the capital from Kyoto to Edo (present-day Tokyo). It's important to note his relationship with the Emporer, as the goal of the Meiji Restoration was to bring the Emporer back into the ruling power of Japan, expelling the long-tenured Tokugawa Clan.

This neighborhood is full of houses belonging to prominent figures, like Takayoshi. Nearly every house in this area belongs to someone who helped push Japan forward, forging a new legacy for the country. Amazingly, an area with such a lineage has endured through the years. It's almost as if a spirit is watching over the neighborhood, preserving its transcendent ideologies. I spent the majority of my afternoon bouncing between the neighborhood and the castle ruins.

One notable item that was produced here is Hagiyaki Pottery. Originally an import from Korea, this form of pottery became commonplace in the country. It's mainly used for holding tea, with the popular drink changing the color of the pottery. I have next to no knowledge about pottery (nor do I care to), but out of respect to the area, I was an attentive visitor and did my research.

I learned more about the history of Hagi at a nearby museum. I'm fascinated by the unheralded ethos that this city has adopted. Hagi (and this entire region, for that matter) has had such a notable imprint on Japanese history, yet it's one of the least populated regions in the entire country. Not only that, it's an area that often gets bypassed and thought of as a pit stop to Hiroshima. In my eyes, it's a gem of a city with an amazing "old town".

After returning to the hotel, I began strumming some esoteric chords on my guitar. I don't think it's a coincidence that my phrasings are reflective of my surroundings. Despite seeing many "old town" establishments over the years, something about Hagi is just different than the others. Maybe it's because the area I walked through today is a present reminder of how the country got back on track. It has its direct lineage to a foregone era, and how they reshaped it to what it is today.

Hagi was a city of founding fathers, pioneers to modern-day Japan. Their efforts might have been serving only the emperor, but the impact of such has spawned so much of what we see today. As a descendent of pioneers, I tip my cap to the long-forsaken citizens of Hagi and everything they did to make this country a cultural superpower.

Tomorrow, I'll be making the long-anticipated visit to Hiroshima. Needless to say, I don't think I need to emphasize the magnitude of the visit.

Thanks and I'll see you soon!

-Ayden