AM20: The Japan Journals

Day 61

May 31st

The Tottori Sand Dunes left a lasting impression (literally and figuratively). Whether I like it or not, I'll never be able to get the grains of sand out of my clothes. I was so dug in, some of it got on my phone. Those grains are going to be a nice reminder of an awesome day.

As for today, the plan is to head over to Mt. Daisen. Again, my knowledge on the Mt. is limited. All I know is that it's considered a "stratovolcano", whatever the hell that is. The volcano looks to be about 90 miles from the dunes, so today's ride should be fairly brief.

Before making my way down the coast line, I went back to the observation deck and took one final view of the dunes. This place caught me off guard, as its bland scenery hides the fun it has within. Any sort of adrenaline junkie will find the joy of this place, as so many activities could be partaken here. If the deeply burroughed sand wasn't enough of a reminder, I'll never forget what a blast this place was to visit.

As I trend south towards Mt. Daisen, I took my daily mental notes on the DZed. It might just be a placebo effect, but I feel like the Supermoto trim has effected how I prefer my handlebar placement. It feels like I need to roll them a bit back, which would be an adjustment. As a shorter rider, I typically like having my handlebars placed closer towards me, as my reach wouldn't effect my riding posture. Another thing I've noticed is the comfort (or lack, thereof) in my seat.

Originally, the rental company in Hokkaido put an aftermarket seat on the DZed. Stock seats are known to be anything but comfortable, so it's common for people to swap it out for a plush, cushier seat. It's not that Jinshu's crew changed the seat, rather, I think it's how the feel of the bike has changed with different wheels and tires.

The cush, soak absorbing drive took up the bulk of my morning. Before descending upon the Mt, I made a pitstop in the nearest town and made my reservations for the night. It turns out that the nearest city (Yonago) is a beautiful port city with shades of resemblance to Osaka. Honestly, Yonago reminds me more of Vancouver.

The city is nestled on a stretch of land, surrounded by an abundance of nature. The mountain settles to the east, resembling a adolescent Mt. Fuji. In the sea, there are fleets of giant ships looking for a pit stop. For a lot of people, Yonago is their first steps onto the country.

Because of the city's location, there's a variety of places to stay. I chose to be a bit lavish and book myself a private room at another Ryokan. I mean, when in Japan...

Before plotting out my GPS to Mt. Daisen, I got a few pieces of advice from the Ryokan staff. They told me that the Mt. is part of a national park, which has several different activities to do. The park is a 45 minute ride from Yonago, which was maybe the most beautiful route of this entire trip. The variance in the surroundings changed sporadically, giving you different flavors of earth (with each passing mile).

Upon entering the park, I'm greeted by a Temple. The Temple (Daisenji) is the beginning of a trail up towards the top of Mt. Daisen. The top of the mountain towers at over 1700 meters, with the trail taking you almost to the top. I've been told that the climb up the Mt. takes roughly 3-4 hours, so I prepared with the right attire. With steps disappearing behind me, I continue to look up the incline towards the peak of this landmark.

The heavily wooded base of the trail clouds your view, as the gradual hike up offers bits of clarity at the top. The low hanging fruit is just the array of beauty that this area provides. Sure, I've been to other mountain peaks. Yes, I've seen beautifully thick forests. It's not so much what I haven't seen before, it's just the amount of variety in one small area that makes Mt. Daisen really stick out.

As I'm approaching the visitor peak, I'm greeted by a serene, gray view of the Tottori region. The hues of dark green and smoke colored backdrops paint a picture that's a far cry from any city life. It's the rural, innately silent quality about this place that makes it stand out. It also helps that the hike up here was brutal, so few visitors actually make the trip and congest this view.

While overseeing the damp, mute beauty of the area, I began chatting with another tourist. They informed me that Mt. Daisen has been a dormant volcano for thousands of years. It's activity has overslept, putting many locals at ease with its presence.

The Mt. was formed from repeated volcanic activity. Starting over a million years ago, the Mt. had its first eruption and over time, repeated overflows built up the area to what it is today. Despite not having an eruption in thousands of years, the ground I stood on today is proof of what mother earth can mold with its temperamental activity. Like any volcano, this peak is the last place I'd want to be during any kind of natural disaster.

Speaking of which, an earthquake about 20 years ago rendered the highest peak of Mt. Daisen to be off-limits to visitors and expert climbers, alike. My current observation point (Misen peak) is now the highest possible point to climb. This scenery is a stark contrast to where I've been the last few weeks. It paints a picture of westward exploration, rugged wilderness, and modest cityscapes. It's not like its ravenous contemporaries to the east.

A place like this is very reminiscent of the Black Hills, the nearest form of ruggest wilderness back home. I know you have fond memories of the Hills, as you visited that side of the state many years ago. Like the Black Hills, this place has slopping shelterbelts on top of jagged inclines, with beautiful aerial views of the plains below. Moments like this take me back home, with almost identical scenery.

I spent the rest of the day hiking the different trails around the Mt. The scenery is somewhat familiar, but all too distant to my recent visits. Something about mother earth and her natural causes has a way of being your emotional compass. Even in the distance reaches of the planet, there's always something in the wild that can point you back home.

After hours on the hiking trails, I was beat and ready to end my day back at the Ryokan. Tomorrow, I'm heading to the Yamaguchi Prefecture. It'll be my last stop before going to Hiroshima. The weight of that visit gains steadily, with each passing hour.

Thanks again and I'll see you soon!

-Ayden