AM20: The Japan Journals

Day 58

May 28th

Shortly after daybreak, I slipped out of my room and quietly ignited the DZed. Upon returning to the Ryokan last night, I was told by a staff member that the ideal time to visit the Ruins would be in the fall. The weather at that time of year is ideal for the fog-like conditions. Fortunately, today feels rather cool and has an overcast atmosphere. For late spring, this is about as good as day as I'm going to have to view the Castle Ruins.

I made it to the Castle Grounds shortly after sunrise, which was a peak hour for viewing. The hint of buzz from my morning coffee begins to take effect, sharpening my glare upwards towards the ruins. In lamens terms, what met my eyes was something out of a fairy tale.

Walking along the premises, I begin to learn the history of this iconic sight. Built in 1411, it was a long-standing fortress for many different battles. For over 300 years, the Castle was vacated and considered to be a tattered historical artifact. That changed a few decades ago when the ruins were partially restored and renovated as a tourist attraction.

This place is unique to ancient attractions, as there was a concerted effort to NOT completely rebuild the castle. The ruins, while partially restored, continue to lay dormant in their battered state. A shell of its former self, the Takeda Castle Ruins are a bleak reminder of the brutality during the feudal era.

A walking trail is provided to walk around the site. Visitors are not allowed on the grounds, themselves, so this trail was the closest I could get to this ancient ruin. Before forging through this path, a fellow visitor informed me of a better vantage point. That area is was across the way, on a mountain slope. The slope is named Ritsuunkyo and has two different viewing areas.

I wasted little time scooting over to the mountain, as I didn't want to miss a second of the clouds. With every passing step, the billowing clouds appeared to dissipate. I was too eager and too determined not to snap at least one photo of this phenomenon.

After 30 minutes of continuous climbing, I finally reached the best viewing deck. What I proceeded to see what nothing but a hint of fleeting magic.

Amid the morning fog, a layer of cloud cover was surrounding the Castle Ruins. Akin to a fully functional castle, the levitating layer of clouds surrounds the castle as a deterrent to visitors. Like a meteorological barrier, spectators have a hard time grasping the sheer size of the Castle Ruins.

This site has laid ruin (no pun intended) to countless encounters and battles. It's almost as if the territory has adapted over the centuries, as the clouds tend to camouflage its attacking intent. When you visit any battle site, it's impossible to ignore the gravity of the soil below you. Knowing that hundreds (if not thousands) of people perished on these grounds is sobering, to say the least.

The levitating ruins remain, perhaps of a reminder of our primal past. Japan has overseen several civil wars, many resulting in ruins like the one in front of me. Sites like this can paint a picture of Japan's cultural climate.

Since WW2, the country has been considered a Pacifist nation. This is a prideful country, full of sophisticated combat/fighting styles. This is also a culture that doesn't give up, on anything. You start to wonder if this country would have ever changed course, if not for the nuclear bombs dropped in this region. Would a landmark like the Castle Ruins have led the country to a similar trajectory?

It's impossible to answer, but the sight is a true peek at their feudal past. I spent the rest of the morning taking in the sights, unsuccessfully snapping a postcard-worthy picture. Again, the staff at the Ryokan told me that Autumn was the best season to view the Castle. The mediocre sights appetized my curiosity, as I only partially saw the full spectacle of this landmark. I'll have to find another "Sea of Clouds" attraction before this trip is over because the sight is well worth the effort.

After leaving the Castle Ruins, I returned to Asago and began arranging plans for the Tottori Sand Dunes. Because of the new setup, I'll be unable to ride the bike through the Dunes. The irony of the timing is not lost on me, as the dunes look to be the most dirt bike-friendly area of any in the country. Regardless, it would be a missed opportunity, if I didn't find a bike to tear through the dunes on.

I found a rental company near the dunes that will allow me to borrow a bike (and truck) for that leg of the trip. I'm really excited to check out the riding conditions, as sand is one terrain that I've rarely ridden. We don't have any tracks back home with it incorporated in the track, so it'll be a nice excuse to work on new riding skills.

In the meantime, I spent the rest of the day mapping out the rest of this leg and brace for the inevitable visit to the Hiroshima memorial. After seeing the Castle Ruins this morning, I can't help but wonder how much more the sentiment of pacifism will be amplified there.

The Castle Ruins are just the tune-up for what's to come.

Thanks and I'll see you soon!

-Ayden