AM20: The Japan Journals

Chapter 2: Tohoku

April 8th

My first week in Japan was filled with an endless array of landscapes and climates. I didn't expect one region of the country to be so diverse, in a variety of ways. Kudos to you for suggesting I start my journey in Hokkaido. The moments of frigid spring winds didn't deter me from taking in the awe that the northern region had to offer.

Onto today's activities... I'll be crossing the Seikan tunnel and into mainland Japan. The plan for this week is to explore the Tohoku region of the country, starting with the Aomori prefecture. To my dismay, it appears that the tunnel can only be crossed via train. I'll have to load the DZed onto a cargo train and temporarily part with the bike. On the bright side, I'll get the opportunity to ride the Shinkansen (bullet train).

Before I begin my daily jaunt, I opened the second envelope you sent me.

Ayden,

Here's the itinerary for your time in Tohoku. To make this a trip tradition, I have included a new headband for this leg of the journey.

I hope this band can give you a new energy, and perspective, for your time in Tohoku. You'll need it, as you'll be putting your two wheeled skills to the test at the Sugo Sportsland ;)

Safe travels and I can't wait to see you!

-Setsuko

Itinerary

Visit the Hirosaki Castle

Shimokita Peninsula

Sirakami Sanchi

Sanriku Coast

Ride the track at Sugo Sportsland

Ginzan Onsen

Aiku

With the DZed loaded into a cargo car, I begrudgingly head over and get my ticket to the Shinkansen. While waiting for my train to depart, I did some research on this tunnel. From what I understand, this tunnel is the longest-running one in the world (that has an underwater segment). Due to the number of trains passing through the tunnel, the speeds of each line are greatly reduced. So much for the true "bullet train" experience.

Despite the concrete scenery, the ride was very smooth and efficient. The tunnel is a real testament to modern ingenuity. I can't imagine the amount of manpower and time that they had to put into this tunnel.

Like a major artery, this tunnel is a literal lifeline between mainland Japan and Hokkaido. Everything from retail goods to supplies are transitioned through here. I can't imagine life on that island, without access to this tunnel.

After a short ride through the tunnel, we've reached the Aomori prefecture. With its maiden freight voyage out of the way, it appears that the bike seems to be fine. To the naked eye, the ride didn't add any battle scars to the already worn dual sport.

I found a nice chain hotel to crash in for the night. The spot looks to be close to the bay, so it shouldn't be a long drive. Once I'm checked in, I'll take a seldom-used cat nap and head south to Hirosaki, where Hirosaki Castle is located. To avoid the boring details, check-in was easy and the nap was great.

On to Hirosaki... I know that the castle is located in a park, famous for its view of the sakura (cherry blossoms). With spring beginning to show its colors, I'm hoping that I see signs of their prosperous bloom.

What I didn't realize before this visit was that the original castle had been struck by lightning and the one currently constructed today is the only standing castle left from the Edo Period. In lamens terms, this castle has been standing since the 19th century.

As I arrive at the entrance of the park, it quickly becomes clear why this is a tourist attraction. Like a saturated travel postcard, the park is surrounded by lush sakura, beginning to bloom. The bright tinge of the cherry blossoms oddly compliments the dull, gray cobble foundation of the park.

Since there was a moat constructed around the castle, they offer boat rentals that allow you to get a different angle of the park and all of its beauty. I decided to stay on foot and get a rounded look at the park, from an even playing field.

While they're not in full bloom, I can see a collection of petals gathering along the moat. I've heard stories about how surreal the scenery is when the petals cloud the view of the water. It's almost like someone dyes the moat in the same shade of pink as the sakura. With several picnic areas available in the park, I decided to stay and have an early supper. As I take in the radiant scenery with my meal, I realized what a great metaphor this park is for the country, as a whole.

As an island nation, they've endured strife between neighboring countries, cross-ocean foes, and even clashing factions of their own people. Despite all of the conflict, they've maintained a stoic composure. The idea of preserving something sacred is not overlooked or diluted here. Respect is first and foremost, with this park being a testament to that.

While many other countries would have plowed over this park, in favor of modern development, the Japanese have preserved this old gem from another era and use it as a shining example of how beautiful their history can be.

As darkness crept up on the park, I made sure to get my quota of photos for the day and take in the final sight of the castle, from an evening lens. It's unfortunate that I'm here this early in the month, as I've heard that there's a well-known festival held here towards the end of April that highlights the beauty of the Sakura. If tonight's views are any indication, then a 2nd trip to this park is a must.

The late stay in the park allowed me to put the DZed on a night ride. While nothing changes with the performance of the bike, I was curious to see how the lights held up at night.

The hour ride back to Aomori city gave me so much perspective on what I've seen, up to this point. The amazing things I've seen and what I have yet to experience in the weeks ahead. Like a beautiful melody or lyric, each passing day finds a way to bring its own hook into my memories.

I safely arrived back at my hotel and crashed for the night. Tomorrow, I plan on heading to the Shimokita Peninsula to wrap up my time in Aomori. Thanks again for the help and I'll see you soon!

-Ayden