"Ready." I responded, taking one last slice of pineapple before following my parents out the door.

My father drove his favorite sea-green Jeep with me in the passenger seat, my mother in the back, with her surf board on her lap.

The sky was still dark as we drove, even the birds had yet to wake. The only sound came from the squeak of wax as my mother rubbed it across her board in the back of the car. I always admired her board, the swirl of pastel blue and white seemed to mimic the swirling foam of a dissipating wave.

She had let me use it a few times before when I was younger. She would sit behind me, supporting my small frame as I first learned to stand up on a board. I still remember the day I was finally able to ride my first wave. The feeling of gliding across the water as the wind whipped by my body, I felt like I was flying. The feeling was euphoric, and entirely addicting.

As I got older, I was out on the waves so much she had to buy me my own board. We still surfed together, during the weekends since I was in school most of the week. I loved the ocean, but not nearly as much as my mother.

My mother surfed daily. Especially these last few months. Every day she would wake up early to catch the high tides, surfing for hours in preparation for today.

I could hear the ocean before I could see it. The crash of waves was so loud, and when the trees finally gave way to the coast, I felt my heart drop.

The swells that rose this morning were large, larger than anything we had ever seen. I was overcome with a ominous feeling that left me unsettled. My father's knuckles went white as he gripped the steering wheel, pulling the car to the side of the road to park with the others that had arrived before us.

As we made our way over to the beach, I could feel the air change around me, sending a chill down my spine unrelated the the crisp morning air.

Groups of people were gathered around people in wetsuits similar to my mothers, the tell tale sign of a competitor. Most likely these groups were like us, families gathered to see their loved one compete.

Nervously, I glanced over at my mother as we made our way to the shoreline. In contrast to my unease, she seemed calm, radiating serenity as she stared out at her beloved ocean.

Noticing my gaze, she glanced over at me and cast me a reassuring smile before looking around the beach.

The spectator stands were beginning to fill up as the judges took their seats at the watch tower.

Over the loudspeaker they made an announcement.

ATTENTION ALL COMPETITORS! THE FIRST ROUND WILL BEGIN SHORTLY. PLEASE GATHER YOUR BOARDS AND PREPARE TO BEGIN.

Slipping the rest of her wetsuit over her torso, she had me zip up the back for her. Once that was done, she pulled me close and kissed the top of my head. Pulling away, she looked into my eyes and removed her pearl necklace, putting it around my neck.

"Watch this for me will you?" She said softly, brushing my hair behind my ear. I nodded, placing my hand over the smooth pearl. My mother smiled and grabbed her board.

"Wish me luck kaikamahine!" She called, waving at me as she turned away, running down the sand towards the awaiting sea.

"Good luck!" I called after her retreating figure.

My father placed his hand on my shoulder as we watched her run off, jumping onto her board to paddle out to sea with the other surfers.

"She'll be fine Leilani, she's the best of the best." My father reassured me, giving my shoulder a pat before walking down to get a closer look. He used my full name this time, which made me uneasy.

He must be as nervous as I am. I let out a breath.

Best of the best, I repeated to myself, but it still didn't shake the ominous feeling I had deep in my chest.

It wasn't long until the competition began and I watched as she caught her first wave. The wave was large, but it seemed more manageable than some of the other ones. She made it look easy the way she effortlessly glided across the water.

Best of the best, I repeated to myself again.

When she caught her second wave, I saw her falter, the wave was huge. I hoped she would let it pass but she didn't, turning on her board, she began paddling. Out of the corner of my eye, I could see that my father had stopped cheering.

It only took a second. The wave was too big and she was moving too fast. All it took was a slight shift in her weight and it was over. The edge of her board dipped into the wave and jerked to the side, sending her into the rushing water. She hit the water just as the wave curled, sending a torment of water on top of her.

Everything went silent.

I held my breath with her, my heart beating wildly in my chest. I tried telling myself that she would be fine, that she could hold her breath for a long time.

She's the best of the best.

My lungs began to burn and I was reminded of the first time she taught me how to hold my breath.

"I know it may feel like you can last forever, but there is a limit for how long someone can stay under water. Never, ever go over five minutes do you understand?" I remember her explaining as she helped me into the water. "Count the minutes on your hand so you don't stay under too long okay?" She said, handing me a rock to hold as I dipped my head under the waves.

With my hand, I counted the minutes.

One

Two

Thats it Leilani, just like that. I heard my mother's encouraging voice say.

Three

Keep your eyes on me, stay focused.

Four

You should feel your lungs burning at this point, as if they could burst out of your chest.

Five

"Up!" she would say as she pulled me out of the water.

But this time, five came and passed and I still didn't see her surface. I clutched her necklace and focused on my breathing.

Six

Seven

Eight...

I stopped counting.

I didn't even know I had been holding back tears until my world began to blur.

I could only remember bits and pieces of what happened next.

My father's cry as he rushed into the water. The lifeguards that followed. My feet that remained firmly planted on the sand, unmoving, useless.

And finally, the broken blue and white board that appeared at the crest of the next wave.

———————
Translations

Kaikamahine-daughter

Ku'u aloha-thanks dear

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