17. Hôtel Restaurant Lameloise

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Thursday 27 March 1986

Before David left Mas de Daumas Gassac, he telexed Jean-Luc, instructing him to counter with an extra 10,000 Francs, adjusting the offer to 235,000. He also told him to inform Henc this is his final offer, and to add that he is thinking of heading to the Netherlands where the selection is dramatically larger.

His intention had been to spend three days in the south, with little itinerary, mostly exploring and relaxing, but now contrary to plans, after his tastings and business at Château Vignelaure and only one night in Les Baux, he was well on his way back north. He had an appointment in Kayserberg on Tuesday in the Alsace, and a few leads to pursue in other wine villages nearby. Likely his anxiousness about the barge brought him back to the Burgundy. In the late afternoon, he parked in front of Hôtel Lameloise in Chagny at the southern edge of the Côte d'Or.

 In the late afternoon, he parked in front of Hôtel Lameloise in Chagny at the southern edge of the Côte d'Or

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He had phoned from Les Baux to reserve a room. "Yes, we have a room for you, Monsieur Michaels, but for one night only, we are full all the weekend. It is Easter, you know. Do you wish just the room and breakfast or demi-pension?"

"Is Jacques in the kitchen tonight?"

"Let me check." Half a minute later she confirmed, "Yes, he is here tonight."

"Can I reserve a table for dinner?"

"No, Monsieur, I am sorry, we are full."

"Then I'll take demi-pension, please."

"Oui, Monsieur Michaels, we look forward to seeing you again."

David loved Lameloise. He had first dined here in 1975 on his way back through the Burgundy from climbing. Louis had brought him as a treat on a wine marketing visit, and he had been deeply impressed with the dinner. At the time, the restaurant had two Michelin stars, which Jacques had taken over from his father in 1971. Jacques maintained the two stars, and then in 1979, he became the youngest chef in France with a third.

David preferred to dine free-style, à la carte. But by taking demi-pension, which is room with dinner and breakfast, he was limited to a simpler menu. At least it secured him a table, and if he wished, he could supplement, he could ramble off-menu. He asked, "What time can I have a table?"

"You can come at eighteen thirty or at twenty-one thirty."

"Great! Put me down for twenty-one thirty." He much preferred dining late. Don't have to rush from the table for later diners. It caps the day, is wonderfully open-ended and has no loose bits afterwards.

He pulled back the drapes in his room, drew aside the sheers and slid the stuffed chair to the window to sit there, gazing out northward over the square. Basel, Vaud, Zurich and Glarus were the Swiss he could see. The Germans were Freiburg, Wiesbaden and K. Can't remember what K is. Most of the French licence plates in the parking lot were 21, Côte d'Or and 71, Saône-et-Loire. The dividing line between these two départements is the Canal du Centre, just up the street.

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