Chapter 2

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I woke the next day to the loud sounds of Dylan and his guitar. Mom and dad decided to buy him his first electric for his birthday. He's been too noisy ever since.


I walked over to his room and knocked. Without permission, I walked in. "Can't you do that in the afternoon? When there are no more sleeping people?" I demanded.


He smirked and went on playing.


I left his room listening to him try to play With or Without you by U2. He couldn't get the notes right, which annoyed me because every time he would make a mistake, he'd start over.


I made my way to the kitchen. I thought about surfing. Maybe with Kianna. Maybe alone. I saw dad reading the newspaper by the table and mom pouring cereal on the other end. "Morning," I said.


"Morning, hun," mom said with a smile. "Why are you up so early?"


I took a look at the clock. It was only 6:27. I gestured to the hallway where Dylan's room was and said, "Dylan."


Mom nodded and went back to her organic cereal.


I figured it was simply just too early for anything, really. So I got changed into my black bikini and left for the beach with my board. The ocean was empty. The beach was empty, too. It felt so quiet. So peaceful.


The waves that morning were strangely strong. And they kept coming in. It was like a stampede of waves. It took me a while to get out into the deep. I had to duck dive a lot. The first wave I rode was amazing. They were big, yes. But they were smooth. It was like driving a race car on soft grass instead of rough road.


After a couple of waves, I decided I was hungry. I chose to ride one last wave before I'd head back.


The last one was huge. Bigger than any I've ridden since we got here. It was exciting. I did an aerial and a few snaps. My usual combo. But the wave offered me more. It curled up like a cocoon, and soon enough I found myself in a big tube section. This is what I would usually go for. The big waves. The ones that take nearly forever to finish. The ones with the full, ultimate rush.


The tube was long. But when I got out I felt the air brushing up against my skin. I felt it getting stronger and stronger.


I felt it blowing me away.


I found myself going off balance, and falling into the water–hard. When I got my head back up, the wave just folded on me, like a blanket. I struggled to get up because at this point, I had no air.


I was underwater. I had no breath. I had no control. Air, I thought to myself, I need air. I tried to swim up, but it was useless. The waves kept pushing me down. I gave up. Trying was useless, anyway. I let myself just float there underwater. But then, I felt someone pulling me up. We were still underwater. My mind was getting fuzzy. I couldn't think straight. When I late realized we were out, I could feel air. I could feel it, but for some reason, I couldn't breathe it.


I opened my eyes to see. My vision was blurry. The last thing I saw was a boy. The one who saved me. I couldn't see his face. I was halfway blind. He was saying something, but I couldn't find the strength to configure what it was. He put me on my board, then–

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