The Island of Screams

20 A pit latrine under pine trees

At 11.30 a.m., the participants of the "summer camp" arrived one after the other in the port of Rafina. Randy, with a big station wagon and his three Aussie friends and a trunk full of tarps and blankets, was first. The four Germans along with, Georgios and Sophia came by bus from Athens with Sophia's friends Dora and Maria. Then Tom, Dave, Nikos, Spiros and Michael rolled in on mopeds. Finally, a Ford Taunus and a jeep with a rubber dinghy for 6 people on a trailer stopped next to the station wagon.

Eyed curiously by the others, the children of the officers got out. The Admiral stood amidst the noisy youths and accepted their expressions of thanks. He handed Stelios the boat keys and unloaded two 20-liter cans of petrol. The trailer was coupled to the station wagon and the throng of heavily laden youths moved toward the ship, causing a stir among the other travelers. The crossing wouldn't take long, so Tom's group stayed on the car deck to avoid having to heave their loads up the narrow stairs.

The second rental car was brought to them fifteen minutes after their arrival in the port of Marmaris on Euboea, and the convoy set off, led by Nikos and Heike on Nikos's moped. Tom and Sophia, Dave and Anna (he was free to choose, all the girls wanted to ride with him!), Spiros and Alexander, and Michael and Georgios followed them on mopeds. Randy drove the overloaded station wagon and trailer, and Sandy was last with an equally crammed Ford. Four youths had to stay in Marmaris who found a shady spot near the harbor and waited.

The road wound inland from the port town in tight curves. To the east mountains rose much higher than Tom had expected. When they had talked about Euboea, it had always been about the beach, dunes, pine forests, but there was also a real mountain range, on the west flank of which they drove toward the north. The route was winding and unevenly developed.

Just as Tom's rear began to find his seating position uncomfortable, Nikos made a right turn. In a wide arc they approached the east coast of the island. Rounding a curve, the road revealed a long, narrow coastal plain. Nikos halted. He gathered everyone at the roadside and pointed to the spot he had chosen for their camp, still a long way off. The bay was bordered on the south by a massive rocky outcrop, in front of which there were - a rarity in Greece - a few dunes, which were adjoined inland by a loose pine grove. At the very southern end, some smaller fields, vineyards and an olive grove stretched up the slope of the mountain.

They reached the tavern Nikos had mentioned in the middle of the bay via a paved sandy path. Nikos spoke to the innkeeper, who confirmed that they were allowed to camp in the designated spot. He also offered them use of his latest acquisition, an outdoor shower attached to the back of the house, for a small fee. He invited them to come and eat, because 24 men promised sales. They would just have to let him know in advance, he said.

Above the wide beach, a sandy road only occasionally used by farmers, led to the fields at the end of the bay. Tourists didn't often find this bay, and if they did, it would be only on weekends, and even then they would stay near the tavern because they didn't trust the sand path.

Tom thought the spot Nikos had chosen was gorgeous. The beach of fine, white sand, was most beautiful here. Above the path was a wide flat area covered with loose grass, behind which there were a number of dunes up to 15 m high.

They unhitched the trailer and pushed it to base of the sand hills where they would erect the tents. Before the work was distributed, Randy and Sandy drove back to Marmaris to return the second rental car and pick up the rest of the group. Nikos led the others into the pine forest between two dunes just behind the designated campsite and explained their improvised toilet system, which he had thought up with Sophia's kind help.

A hole was dug with a folding spade, which at her insistence had to be fixed with wood, otherwise the loose sandy soil could lead to involuntary slipping. Everyone had to cover their "legacies" with some sand. The next day a new hole was to be dug, the old one filled in and marked with a stick. Four toilet builders answered immediately when Nikos asked for volunteers.