Letters from India

31. A Guest in the Punjab - June 1985

A Guest in the Punjab

June 14-17, 1985

Kaputhala (Punjab)

Dear USA Yogi Friends, :-)

(June 14th) Yes well, here I am in Punjab. No foreigners allowed. Haven’t registered with anyone. No one’s stopped me. I was going to leave to Jammu yesterday (story following) but my “plans” were abruptly halted.

See, I arrived 12th evening. Before, a couple of times police searched the trains (or “checked them out,” don’t know what for, maybe criminals) we were stopped an especially long time in Ambala, right on the border of Haryana (which we had been traveling through) and Punjab. I dunno, I just covered all white flesh with my sari, and looked out the window when police came by my compartment. All the time, of course, everyone would be staring at me – white-faced young foreigner – only a young 19-year old female, yet! – on trains, in streets, policemen on train platforms.

Anyway, on the train I had two very nice couples near me, one lady spoke English – she told me about this place near Jammu, called ‘Waishnodevi’. What you do is, take a bus from Jammu to nearby Kathra, from there, you walk 14 km through beautiful mountains to a famous cave-temple pilgrimage spot, called Waishnodevi. Soo, I took it to be from Sai, He wants me to go to Waishnodevi. So after Amritsar, I'll go.

Anyway, where was I? Ah yes, arrived in Amritsar. Late, ummm, like between 7-9 PM. Had started from Delhi at noon. Anyway, really dark. They had no retiring rooms (full) so I set up camp in the small 2nd class waiting room. No less than three policemen at table in center of room. Said nothing to me. I looked around the room once or twice – all eyes on me. Best action is to completely and totally ignore it – never let eyes meet.

Total rat city – they were scurrying about all over the floor. Even on the bench, where my feet were up. When I thought I was safe, a few times I saw a rat peek out from behind a suitcase, also on the bench. You know, they seem more afraid of us then we are of them. They’re really cute embodiments of the Divinity Atma. :-) I called the waiting room “Ganesh Nivas” abode of Ganesha, because Ganesha’s vehicle is a rat. I figured there must be Ganesha in a huge astral form, standing in the waiting room and extending to the sky, because so many rats have taken residence at his feet here! I showed a few rats, who now & then were on the floor looking up at me, Darshan of their Lord Ganesh, from my alter picture of him.

Hmmm, well, had a nice rest but woke a few times for a bit. The lights are kept on all night, you know, and people break out in conversations frequently.

Next day I left luggage in the waiting room and split to see the Golden Temple. Isn't it odd that the police in the room didn’t say anything to me, nor the countless “bobbies” around the station, at exits I had to go through, near desks I asked info from? Sai..?

Took rickshaw to bus station where I asked about Jammu timings, 8 AM. Well, I figured I could see the Golden Temple and one Devi/Hindu temple in two hours, then go to Jammu.

From bus walked to Golden Temple, like a mile or so away. Sikhs are so helpful in giving direction to their temple, they all know where it is.

Inside is a small golden (of course!) temple in the middle of a huge water tank. Walking path all around, with on one side having a connection “bridge” walkway, to the temple itself. Very unique. Hindu temples usually have the tank & temple separate, beside each other, not combined in this way.

Soo… I was innocently walking around the walkway (for respect, before going into the temple), when a Sikh who was walking nearby started a conversation. Turns out, a successful textile guy who had been studying in Germany, 30-ish, age-wise. Seemed like your average type of hospitable Indian. He showed me the temple and even the 2nd & 3rd floors (which, I think, are usually not open to foreigners, or non-devotees, judging by the amount of talking to the guards he had to do before proceeding).