Letters from India

26. Mahaballipuram & Journey to the North - May 1985

Mahaballipuram & Journey to the North

May 20, 1985 Vrindaban, U.P.

(The “interesting daughter” letter)

Dear Ones,

Hope that all of you are fine & happy. I'm doing alright, thank you.

In Kanchipuram I saw four temples on Friday (18th), then on Saturday morning attempted to see two more buuut, after extensive walking in the Indian midday sun, found them to be closed. A closed temple is truly a saad sight.

Anyway, found that 1:30 PM bus went direct to Mahaballipuram. Couldn’t believe my luck! Soo easy. Packed up & checked out of hotel at 1 PM, went to bus depot. At 1:45 PM, no direct bus had come. Should’ve known. “I’ll know better next time,” statement is used yet again. I had perfected another Indian rule: there is a bus to a certain place, and there is a direct bus to a certain place. “Bus” means that a bus is going in that general direction but you will have to switch routes in the middle. In my case, they expected me to knowingly jump on a ‘Chingleput’ bus (I found out later), then get one from there to Mahaballipuram.

Even with that knowledge, all the buses have Tamil only (exception is Madras city buses) lettering, and I didn’t know the Tamil letters of “chi” or “g”.

Well at any rate, a “definite” direct bus was leaving at 4:30 PM soo, I lugged myself & luggage back to hotel and got them to return my room for another 2 hours.

When the bus finally did come (I was looking carefully at the Tamil for “Mahaballipuram”), I didn’t catch it. Saw “Mamallapuram” bus go by and park; I ignored it. Luckily, someone brought it to my attention. Guess what name ‘Mahaballipuram’ is also commonly known by…? Yes, MAMALLAPURAM!

Anyway, had smooth ride and arrived after dark. Went to nearby Mamalla Lodge. They had no singles available so I had to get a double at Rs 25. The floors were really dirty, toilet (Western)_ had no seat (only rim), whole bathroom floor was sticky and dirty. Well what to do.

Next morning, tromped off early. The beach was right there, less than ½ mile. Expansive beautiful blue ocean. There was a “shore temple” ruins. Ruin of temple, saaad sight. Then I went to the nearby rocks and spent 1 ½ hour climbing up & down & all around, seeing the various rock carvings and temple ruins. Went up lighthouse. Many, many sculpturing done. Streets lined up & down with shops, all with tons & tons of idols of gods, etc. Huge pieces of granite being chiseled away by the artists.

10:30 AM I returned, figured I had seen pretty much of everything (oh yes, had seen the famous “Arjuna’s penance” rock carving, very nice). Was going to stay the night, then leave early morning Monday for Madras, then leave for Mathura on 3 PM that day, but figured since had seen everything and had nothing else to do, that night take an earlier bus back to Madras. Went to bus depot and heard, bus leaving at 10:45 AM! Soo in the usual spur-of-the-moment manner, decided to go. Rushed back, packed very hurriedly, made bus. Turned out, bus stood there for 45 minutes and left at 11:30 AM. What to do.

Had nice trip, bus pretty mushed. Part of it was spent with a small Indian kid on my lap, her mother was sitting beside me with a baby on her lap, her other kid (older) was standing mushed in the isle.

One other helpful “Indian hint is: on any public transport, sit by the window. Not for the view, but so you’re mushed up against the wall and not human bodies! Plus, you get cooling breezes (no glass windows on buses, just bars with open air).

Anyway, arrived Madras 2 PM and knowingly took ole’ faithful bus 19M to the Mahila Sabha. There, I discovered, that I had my days messed up and it wasn’t Monday the 21st I leave to Mathura, but Tuesday the 21st! Soo, figured the Lord had wanted me back to have this extra day, which turned out to be very handy cuz it gave me time to organize & repack & rest. Om Sai Ram! :-)