Playing The Surfer

Door Murffiee

855K 14K 6.2K

"Does this feel real enough?" He grabbed my face delicately in his hands, the rain runs down our foreheads to... Meer

Editing Schedule Updates and Plan
characters | visuals
Epigraph
PART 1 | kenji
PART 2 | our tradition
PART 3 | big sister card
PART 4 | my locker
PART 5 | twisted his knickers
PART 6 | this girl
PART 7 | to familiar
PART 8 | willy
PART 9 | cliche movie players
PART 10 | australian babe
PART 11 | truth or dare
PART 12 | detention
Covers | :)
PART 13 | my ex
PART 14 | pirates
PART 15 | so stupid
PART 16 | dribble
PART 17 | all gender toilet
PART 18 | tough gal
PART 19 | he never cries
PART 20 | cooties
PART 21 | a photo
PART 22 | sam
PART 23 | good thing
PART 24 | the ocean
PART 25 | the tea
PART 26 | uncomfortable
PART 27 | im hungry too
PART 28| sweet-filled delight
PART 29 | so whipped
PART 30| come and find me
PART 31 | text message
PART 32 | boys and their desires
PART 33 | Qual Point
PART 34 | patience grasshopper
authors note
PART 36 | the cinema
PART 37 | nancy drew
PART 38 | found it
PART 39 | live a little
PART 40 | lips collide
PART 41 | promposal
PART 42 | she's magic
PART 43 | real enough?
PART 44 | oh, shit
PART 45 | I'll be here
PART 46 | heartache
authors note
PART 47 | if it was love
SEQUEL
NEW BOOKS!

PART 35 | princess

12.6K 243 45
Door Murffiee

Kennedy's P.O.V

THE WAVES CRASHED over each other in a sound soothing to my ears.
After school Sage and I went straight home for our boards.

Mum had taken dad to another one of his appointments so the house was empty, except for Roscoe so we took him with us.
Obviously couldn't keep leaving him home alone. Plus he loves the water, so perfect chance for him.

"Yes Sage! Judges will love that," I compliment his surf, high fiving him as he jogs toward me.

"What score do you give?" He runs a hand through his untamed hair.

"Seven. You were a bit wobbly on that last one."

Sage nods. "Yeah felt it."

We stand there for a bit staring out at the beach.

"You'll do good," He murmured. "For Sam."

I nod and start toward the water, my board comfortably settled under my arm. "Score me!" I yelled over my shoulder as I dived in.

I execute a couple of bottom turns, tall slides, 360's and roundhouse cutbacks, among other things, and make sure each one is as perfect as I can get it.

Riding the surf in I squint at a figure, struggling upon the path toward the top of the dunes -near the road-.

Once I reach the wet sand I begin walking to Sage.
"Damn, Kenji-"

I cut him off. "Who's that man? He's been watching us for a couple minutes."

Sage turns around. "Who?"

Then I recognise the face, the shirt, the... legs?

"Ohmygod! Dad?!!" I drop my board and run up the path with Sage hot on my tail.

It can't be dad. He has legs? How?

Sage and I get closer, I gasp and stop abruptly. That's when I notice the prosthetics and crutches helping him stand with them on.

He takes a step forward, though it's a slow and wobbly one. "That was some quality surf Kenji."

Tears begin to form in my eyes and lump forms in my throat. "You- your walking."

Dad grins. "I guess you could call it that."

Beside me Sage is speechless for once. Both our eyes welled with a happiness that neither of us could process.

When we don't say anything, so dad adds, "Got them early for the meet tomorrow."

"Your coming?" I question out of shock.

"I can't keep hiding from the surf, it's a part of me," he grins. "Who do you think you got your talent from."

"So you'll come and watch us?" Said Sage.

Dad nods, his weight leaning on the crutches.

It's been so long since he's last been to the beach, after the accident he never once talked about the surf. I'd seen it in his eyes a few times, the desire to be at the waves. Without a doubt I know he'd turn back time to switch lives that day.

I missed the times he'd shout out techniques and scores those days we practised on our boards.

Mum would sit with a picnic rug on the sand. Our lunch ready to be scoffed after a hard worked surf. Sage and I racing the waves, competing against each other. Brother vs Sister, dad as the judging panel.

I miss those days, but I could get them back.

"Chris is at the house," dad spoke. I resurface from my memory letting my eyes return to his. "He brought one of his mates from set."

"Did mum send you down to get us?"

"Nah, snuck out when she was making the salad. But we should get going." Dad hobbles back toward the road. "I'm only allowed on these for 2 hours a day."

My brother and I grin. "Always breaking the rules," laughed Sage.

We quickly jog back down to grab our boards, it gave dad a head start though he didn't make it very far by the time we made it to the road.

Soon enough, the three of us made it home.

"Hey! There's my favourite cousin," exclaimed Chris as he went in for a hug with Sage.

I roll my eyes, knowing he's just joking around. "Cousins. Your favourite cousins."

"Who said that?" He asked looking around blindly. "Sage? Did you hear that?"

"Food is on the table!" Interrupted mum and we all scurried to a seat.

***

Tomorrow arrived faster than expected. First thing this morning we had all driven down to the beach where the Surf Competition was held - which also happened to be 30minutes from our house, very annoying, especially when we live right near a beach.

The whole morning we spent watching other surfers heats, I watched their moves and techniques, scoring them mentally in my head.

When it came time for Sage to head to the water, my friends arrived.

"Over here!" I wave a hand so they can see me. They head over, Michelle and Julie running ahead.

"Is he here?!" They squeal, their heads turning this way and that.

I chuckle, "Well hello to you too."

"Sorry Kennedy," Julie said. "This is your day and we'll shut up about him... once we've met him."

I shake my head with a smile on my face then Caiden, King, Hayley and Jersey arrive.
"So when's your heat?" Hayley asked.

"In about 20 minutes. But my brothers out there now."

They turn to the waves and squint at the surfers. "Which one?"

I go and stand beside them. "That one," I point. "He's wearing the red vest."

"Nice. You think he'll do well?" Kingston asked, still watching Sage as he executes a perfect slash.

I nod. "So far he's doing great. We haven't been to a competition in awhile, but I know he won't mess this one up."

He won't mess it up for Sam.

"OHMYGAWD!" Michelle exclaims clinging to Julies arm. "Look, look, he's here. He's actually here."

The boys turn around, clueless. "Who?"

Julie bounces up and down, Michelle still clung to her side. "Chris freaking Hemsworth, that's who."

Up on the dunes stands my cousin, he's wearing a sleevless button down and some casual shorts. Nothing too fancy. "Can we shoot that scene tomorrow? I'm at an important event right now," Chris spoke into his phone, just loud enough for us all to hear.

"Kennedy! Can you introduce us?"

"Looks like I won't have to," I answered as Chris ended his call and started making his way down the dunes toward us.

Michelle and Julie looked as if they would burst as he reached us. "Sorry, that was the set. Had to change shooting times."

"Your not leaving yet are you?" I asked hopefully. I hadn't seen Chris in a long time and this seems as if it would be the only time for a few years, with him being busy with his career and all.

Chris shook his head then grinned at my group standing next to me with shell shocked face, even Caiden had an adorable one. "Are these your friends?"

"Unfortunately," I joke. "This is Michelle and Julie."

"Excuse our fan girl vibes but...you are literally my idol," Michelle beamed.

Julie nods, blushing red, too struck to say anything.

"Nice to meet you," he winks. Michelle and Julie try hard to contain their giggles.

"And this is Jersey, Kingston, Hayley and Caiden." At his name, Caiden moves closer to me wrapping an arm around me.

Chris raises his eyebrows at Caiden's actions but doesn't say anything, instead he holds out his hand to each of the boys. "Well, I'm Chris."

They all shake hands politely.

"Do you all surf?" Chris said.

"Nah, Just me," Hayley spoke up.

"And wow what a move that was." The speakers boomed, interrupting us.

I turn to the waves just to see one of the surfers repeat this 'wow' move, which to be honest was pretty shocking, even I can't do that.

My dad hobbles toward us out of nowhere, I rush over to help before he face plants in the sand. "You gonna wax or not?" He told me once we were both steady on our feet.

"Mr Dyline... your... walking," Caiden said, shocked. "Thats amazing."

"Thanks, son." He smiles. "Now go get that wax Kenji, it's in the car."

I take the keys from the bag on the ground and jog up the dunes. There are dozens of cars parked so I weave my way through to our car.

I get the wax and lock the car again.

"What a coincidence," said a voice behind me. Spinning round I almost drop the wax at the sight of who the man is in front of me.

"What are you doing here?" I spit, there's no way I'm letting him touch me again.

A teasing smirk grows on Mr Ballar's face. "I said I'd be there when you entered again, Remember?" He takes a step closer, I take a few step back.

"Look, I am not going to say this again. Get. away. from. me."

He only narrows his eyes and runs a hand through his grotty hair. "Kennedy, Kennedy, Kennedy," he clicks his tounge.

I resist the urge to vomit at my name in his mouth,. Then the faint sound of a bouncing basketball nears.

"Fuck. Off," I grit out and take another step back.

"No can do-"

The thud of the same basketball gets louder, chatting and laughing follow it. "Princess?"
The group of boys stop and the bounce echos. At the nickname I look up to see who has mistaken me for someone else.

I narrow my eyes and furrow my brows gently as I try to place where I know these boys from.

"Is he bothering you?" The boy with the familiar dark hair had said.

Mr Ballar grabbed my arm, his hands curling tight. "She's my niece." I yank my arm away, this man is sick.

Dark haired boy glared at him. "Kennedy can speak for herself."

My eyes flit from one person to the other. Blood rushing through my ears. This boy knows my name.

"Princess?" the boy spoke softly.

I shake my head repeatedly, something in my gut telling me to trust this familiar boy.

His friends stand straighter and begin to come at Mr Ballar. "Beat it," one growls.

Mr Ballar looks around, he's out numbered so he loosens his grip on me and pushes his way past them.

"You okay princess?"

I snap my head toward the dark haired boy. "I know you. How do I know you?"

He chuckles and takes the basketball from out under his arm. He then balances it on a finger and spins it swiftly. "We met in the changing room. After our first ball game."

My mouth slots into an 'o' shape and he raises an eyebrow. "Does that jog your memory?"

I smile gratefully. "Well thank you, Liam." I hold up my wax. "I gotta get back to the surf."

Liam winks. "You're welcome princess."

They head off, the basketball bouncing once again and I don't hesitate to run back toward the sand.

"You're back," Jersey grins. "Your dad went to the judging panel, he said he wanted to make a speech before the next heat started."

"Kay," I kneel down next to my board, thinking about how I've only been to one of the boys games. "Question... how come you guys haven't had a basketball game in a while?"

Kingston shrugs one shoulder. "After that first one we played one or two, but half our team busted up their grades. So we lost players."

I nod my head, understanding now. "Anyways. I think there's a food truck down the beach a little, up for a smoothie?"

"Sure, and the girls took off after Chris. King? Caiden? Wanna come with?" Jersey said.

Caiden shakes his head. "Nah I'd rather keep my girl company."

My heart flutters and a dozen butterflies rage into life. He said 'my girl'.

King and Jersey walk off for the smoothies and Caiden kneels down next to me.

"So this is how you wax a surfboard."

I roll my eyes. "Yes, this is how you wax a surfboard."

He nudges my shoulder. "Your gonna do great, for Sam."

He remembered.

Smiling I put the wax down and wrap my arms around his neck. "For Sam, dad and me..." I peck his lips and utter, "For everyone."

***

"Well, that takes us to the end of this heat, Rory Durham taking the lead with Sage Dyline -son of the famous surfer Jason Dyline- sets himself into second by a few points."

"Yeah those boys are so close in such skill level Mark, but before we head into heat 9. The one and only surfing prodidgy: Jason Dyline has something he'd like to say."

My eyes flit over to the judging panel and I step out from under the competiton tents to get a closer look.

"There's a lot of amazing surfers out there," Dad's voice crackled over the speakers. "And as you may know, I lost my legs to the waves, a boy whom I had loved as a son, died helping me survive."

Around me, people gasp, a few tearing up. And I, am among those few on verge of tears. I wish Sam was here surfing this competition beside me.

"So if it's possible, everyone out there who's hittin' the waves today, lets ride for our people we lost to the sea."

People whistle and clap, punching the air with a loud 'heck yeah.'

"Thanks Jason, it was an honour having you be here today. I know there are many out in the crowd eager for a selfie. But now before we lose any time, onto heat 9."

I felt a small tap on my shoulder. "Best of luck Kennedy," a volunteer says while handing me a white competitor's rash vest which was still wet from it's use in the previous heats.

Partially gross if you ask me.

I gave her a closed lip smile. The girl was pretty and very young, her arms tanned from days in the sun, and judging by the excited glint in her eyes and the muscle tone in her shoulders and legs, she knew the surf.

A real beach bum, I respected that. "Thank you," I answered.

Tucking my board under my armpit I jog down to the shoreline. The ocean let out a low roar and I planted my feet down, my toes sinking under the wet sand.

The ocean wasn't going to take me this time. I would win this, for Sam.

My fellow competitors pulled up beside me, stretching down to their toes then jumping a couple times in spot.

Bellowing over the loud speaker at either side of the beach, the commentator calls a five minute countdown. Myself and the three other girls in multiple coloured rash vests race down the shore dump.

Leaping over the first roll of foam and the competitions and I duck dive the second. The water washes my hair back, slick against my face. I feel the ocean's current flow through my body, re-charging my limbs like an old truck battery.

Us girls reach the line-up, and after a few minutes the horn blows, I set my waterproof watch to count down 20 minutes. My fingers graze over the strap, it was a present from my father when I entered my first competition back in Australia.

Moments later, a perfect set approaches and I grasp that the others are a good fifteen metres away. I'm in position. Spinning my board beneath me I dive forward, cupping the water with my hands as I feel the wave build behind me, taunting me chasing me. But I don't back down.

Back on the beach, the commentator traces my actions through words, describing all of my movements to the crowd of onlookers.

"Just a few seconds into this heat, we see Kennedy Dyline, former Teen Surf Champion in white, dropping down the face of this left. Should be at least twice overhead for this teen, don't you reckon Phil?"

Crouching low I touch my hand to the window of water, pivot and then dive up toward the lip.

"I'd be surprised if I wasn't, Mark, WHOA! Kennedy absolutely annihilates the top of that section!"

I bounce off the foam, descending with control before laying back into one more heavy bottom turn.

"Lots of style from this Aussie, she has definitely learn't from the best."

I soar through four more sections, carving the lip hard on each.

Expanding my lungs, I inhale the salty ocean air, calming myself for the next manoeuvre. I bounce a little and twist to hit the crest of the wave and then I'm flying through the air.

"WOAH! Did you see that Mark!"

I land back steadily and my body is completely amped. I could go on forever.

"I sure did Phil! Just like the celebrated Jason Dyline, this girl undeniably, walks on water."

Then kicking off the back, I begin paddling back out through the rip to make the line-up again.

A grin pinches at my cheeks as I make my way over to the other girls in flamboyant rashies. "And here comes her score, a gnarly 9.11 out of a possible perfect 10."

"But she better watch out Mark, because Narissa Scott is coming in hot with a perfect 8."

But I don't care if Narissa sneaks up and beats me. Instead I can only imagine Sam, with one of his chuffed grins on his face.

Chapter for a legit human immaculate_ROACHES

Gosh, mate I am dying for a surf right now
+ a longer chapter for y'all,

Glad to finally say I finished my exams today!! Hehe and currently watching Friends :) at midnight

Ga verder met lezen

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