𝐋𝐎𝐎𝐊𝐒 𝐒𝐎 𝐏𝐄𝐑𝐅𝐄𝐂𝐓 ➝ 𝐫𝐚𝐟𝐞 𝐜𝐚𝐦𝐞𝐫𝐨𝐧

𝟏𝟕. 𝐃𝐎𝐖𝐍, 𝐃𝐎𝐖𝐍, 𝐓𝐎 𝐆𝐎𝐁𝐋𝐈𝐍 𝐓𝐎𝐖𝐍

𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐒𝐔𝐍 𝐖𝐀𝐒 setting in the distance as the boys dropped me off at my dock. Despite my arguments, they told me repeatedly that they had another errand and I couldn't help them. Of course, I was offended, but whatever it was, I knew it didn't involve me and I didn't want to push.

So, I figured that I could change into my bathing suit and make my way down to the beach, hopefully catching up with John B and Kie, who said they would meet us later. I piled up my car and made my way towards the beach.

'X 'by the Jonas Brothers played through my speaker, as I danced in my car while I zipped down the road. The sun slowly travelled closed into the ocean line as I drove on, watching as The Cut got smaller and smaller through my rearview mirror. Clouds moved around the sun, giving small shaded spots as I drove.

I could see people outside and walking around, enjoying the usually warm weather. Windows rolled down, the breeze circulated through the car, blowing my hair to the side of my face before I tucked it behind my ear.

This is the type of moment that I enjoy. Even though I was by myself, I felt so happy and carefree that nothing could ruin my mood, especially not now.

I pulled up at the curb and parked my car as usual. Pulling my board out of the back, the warm air hit me like a wave and for a second I lost my breath. I grabbed my backpack from the trunk as well, slinging it over my shoulder. I made my way down to the beach, the sand squished between my toes after I took my shoes off.

I could see Kie and John B in the water, both talking and sitting on their boards. They waved in my direction and I waved back before setting up the board. I tied the leash around my ankle before grabbing my board once again.

I ran into the ocean, feeling a small shock from the cold water as it hit my legs. I dove in, pushing against the board as I paddled towards my friends. I wiped my face with my hand, trying to keep the saltwater out of my eyes, knowing how painful it was.

I approached my friends with a smile, "How are the waves lookin'?" I asked as the three of us bobbed in the water.

"Pretty killer," John B replied as a wave crashed towards our board.

"Hey, save some waves for us!" JJ yelled from the beach as both he and Pope ran into the water, board in hands.

So this was it. We had found the perfect wave. The air was crisp, the sun was dimmed and a light breeze was at our backs as we gazed out over the reef. As we watched each other, the sea became corrugated as another set marched in from the coast.

The first wave came in and hit the reef, jacking up to twice its previous height because of the sudden change in depth. The lip feathered in the wind for a few moments, before pitching forward to explode in a foaming mass of white-water.

We watched in slow motion as the wave peeled along the reef, as controlled and orderly as you like. It was like watching someone do up a zipper. It was quite simply the perfect wave.

Total exhausted excitement; I felt like yelling and jumping around. But it went farther than that; there was this huge sense of self-satisfaction. Above it all was a deep sense of privilege, and looking at my friends I could see they felt it too.

The ocean had treated us to a special display of chilling beauty, a gesture of friendship from one of the most powerful forces on the planet.

✮

The next morning I met up with the crew on the boat and today was the day we set the drone out. We had all of the equipment ready for use and we were ready to get this show on the road. "Okay pin it here, JJ" John B called as we stopped in the middle of the ocean.