The waves crashed around me as I waited with anticipation. “Erin Danely,” boomed over the intercom as it was my turn to ride into the torrent that I was supposed to competitively surf in. I took a deep breath inhaling salty spray and the sweet floral scent of the flowers on the shore. My long brown hair swirled in the water as I paddled strongly out into the open waves.
My hands cut through the water propelling me forward. The silky water caressed my skin. A lock of hair fell into my face and in a flash of annoyance I quickly put it behind my ear. I sat up on my board to wait for just the wave that would drive me to victory.
The roar of the crowds made me smile as I waited. They were cheering me on faithfully. I glanced into the water and saw my violet eyes and sun kissed skin reflecting back into the suddenly smooth water. I looked up and saw a small bump in the sea in the distance. I grinned as it grew larger. This was my wave.
I caressed my body against the board and paddled fiercely towards it, determined. The monster wave dawned higher and higher as I grew closer. Soon it was a wall and I was a fly. I angled my board to the shore and paddled away from it as it drew me in like a raging current. My board tilted and I rose off it letting the wave take me in. I posed like a skater on the board and cut through the wave. It was monstrous! The spray from the crashing tunnel hit me with the force of a hose. For a moment I was in the tunnel.
Everything faded out for a moment. Sound and thought were completely gone. Now there was only the water raining down behind me and the circle of light in front of me. I shifted forward and I sped out of the tunnel. Sound introduced itself with the roaring of the crowd and I felt a smile plaster itself on my face.
The wave eventually faded along with the competition. I paddled towards shore slowly and my medal. This was what I lived for. This was my dream and I was living it to the fullest. Some people use drugs and alcohol. I use surfing as my natural RUSH.
