"𝚃𝚑𝚒𝚜 𝚙𝚕𝚊𝚌𝚎, 𝚝𝚑𝚎𝚒𝚛 𝚕𝚘𝚟𝚎, 𝚢𝚘𝚞, 𝚊𝚕𝚕 𝚘𝚏 𝚒𝚝 𝚒𝚜 𝚓𝚞𝚜𝚝...𝚝𝚒𝚖𝚎𝚕𝚎𝚜𝚜..."
Diamond Bay is the last place on earth that surfer Cove Michaels wants to spend the summer before University, with its historic post office and...
Ups! Tento obrázek porušuje naše pokyny k obsahu. Před publikováním ho, prosím, buď odstraň, nebo nahraď jiným.
•• Doc ••
The crystal water swirls around me as I hover above it, my surfboard between my legs. I look back towards the shoreline, studying the crashing waves, the long jetty and the bustling kiosk.
Life is simple here. It's sandy hair, sunburnt skin, salty lips and surfboard wax. My whole life has revolved around the ocean for as long as I can remember. It's been a leveller, a calming device, a friend and a guidance since before I could walk, before I could swim, before I could surf.
I've watched the sun come up over Diamond Bay for 18 years. I've seen it sparkle and I've seen it it scream at the sky as storms billow through.
I turn back to the endless ocean in front of me and start to paddle. My hands pushing against the water like fish, propelling me forward, head on into the waves. I lift myself up and drive beneath the incoming wave, gliding beneath the sparkling water before rising to the surface.
It's been years since I've felt this at peace, this content with my life and myself. In fact I don't think I've ever felt like this before. It's so easy to feel sad, why can't it be easy to feel happy.
Battling against your own mind is a pointless war, that no side ever wins. It's like your soul is trapped in no mans land, waiting for something to snap and for the inevitable to occur.
I shake the thoughts from my head and return to my state of calm, watching the wave build silently in the distance. I can feel my heart begin to race, it pounding in my chest, pumping the blood throughout my body with such intensity I can hardly breathe.
The wave continues to build, gradually growing as it edges closer and closer to my board. Soon enough it's way above my head and I start to paddle.
Fast.
With legs kicking and arms scrambling, I manage to gain enough momentum for my board to lift up and when I open my eyes I'm riding it.
This spectacular force of nature is right beneath my feet, it thunders around me, and moves quickly with each passing second. I'm gliding down the water front, trailing my fingers through the wall of water as I balance myself and grin.
The wave begins to curl in on itself, creating the tunnel of water. Another natural phenomenon that I somehow have the pleasure of witnessing.
"Here we go." I mutter, darting towards the barrel.
I enter it smoothly, instantly falling into a trance. I'm in awe at how beautiful it is, the undeniable perfection of this very moment.
Until I feel the weight of another board on the back of my own. My head swings around and instantly I am greeted by a girl with dark hair, her olive skin glistening in the sun as she pushes my board.
There is a determination in her eye, that almost frightens me. I furrow my eyebrows before my board flicks out from underneath me and I dive into the water, more gracefully than I originally thought.
