The ascent was nothing compared to riding downhill. The hooves slipped on rocks, causing the horses to stumble, and this did not deter them from biting one another. Pearl ran forward and pushed her way behind Chief, causing Daphne to let out a little squeal of fear. She pulled back on the reins.

"Whoa, Pearl. Slow down."

"There you go," Kelly said. "Show her who's boss."

"Show her who's boss!" Dave was laughing. "That's classic! Show her who's boss!"

Daphne had no idea what Dave found funny.

Pearl kicked at Phillips's horse with her hind legs and then came down and reared back, nearly throwing Daphne off. Daphne's heart beat fast and she couldn't speak.

Kelly turned Chief around. "Whoa, Pearl! Whoa, girl!"

Daphne didn't think it did any good as she caught her breath and tried to slow down her heart. If the horses had at one time considered Kelly their leader, they no longer remembered it. She was like any other rider to them now.

Emma called out, "You okay, Daphne?"

"Yeah. I'm okay." Her heart still raced and she couldn't breathe as she clutched the reins.

She glanced at Cam, who looked at her, white-faced.

"Sure?" he asked.

Daphne nodded, still breathless.

She followed Kelly and the Chief further into the valley.

After several yards, Kelly gave them more information about the area. "There are some other interesting plants, such as the native Jimsen Weed the Chumash used as a ceremonial hallucinogen, and the non-native African iceplants and European milk thistle. There's milk thistle over there," Kelly said, probably aware but not willing to acknowledge her lost authority over the horses.

The milk thistle resembled a medieval flail with its thick green stem topped with a green spiked head. A few purple blooms on its tip might have been blood.

"We'll take the horses down to the stream for a drink. They'll go right to it. You don't have to do a thing."

The horses scattered in a trot despite the commands of their riders, but when they reached the stream, they stopped and drank and seemed ready to submit again.

"Okay, everybody," Kelly said. "If you'll notice the leather pouches near your knees, you'll find plastic water bottles. Each rider has two: one for the ride out, and one for the ride in. If you'd like to dismount and taste the spring water, go right ahead. It's delicious."

Phillip and Emma climbed down and bent over the stream as Kelly continued to talk.

"From here, we'll follow the stream down further into the valley. Although there aren't many trees, keep your eye out for occasional low branches and use your reins to steer clear of them. I'll lead you to the top of Mount Diablo, which is on the northern side of the island and also the higher of the two mountains at 2,450 feet above sea level. On clear days, you can see the California coast from there, and at this time of year, there's a good chance we'll spot whales."

This solicited excitement among the riders. "Oh."

"Yay!" Emma said.

"I hope so!" Dave shouted in his rowdy voice. "We didn't see any the last time we came, did we Vince."

Vince shook his head in his usual mute way.

"How long is this trip, roundtrip?" Phillip asked.

"Two hours. It's roughly three miles to the base of the mountain and another mile to the top," Kelly replied.

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