Hainan Dao

Book I Chapter 10

HAINAN DAO BOOK I

CHAPTER 10

There are many places on Hainan Island that advertise themselves as scenic spots and tourist must-see sites. As we went bumping along the road, Fuguang began telling me about some of them and the stories and history behind these famous landmarks.

He told me about the giant stone markers at the spot called, Tianyahaijiao, by the city of Sanya. Upon the faces of these stones are inscribed the words, Tian, Ya, Hai and Jiao, hence the name. These words, when translated, make up a phrase that means, ‘the edge of the sky’ and ‘the corner of the sea’, in other words, the Ends of the Earth. The city of Sanya is near the southernmost region of the Island. When you stand at the stone markers, you can stare out from literally the southernmost spot in all the Chinese kingdom.

Fuguang said that Tianyahaijiao was another three hours away by car. I wanted to get back before sundown, so we thought we’d leave that one for another day. Luhuitou, on the other hand, was not far off, so that’s where we headed instead.

The peak of Luhuitou was said to be the highest point in the local area, and possibly the whole Island. From there, the view overlooking Sanya Bay was supposed to be excellent. It also boasted of a garden of sorts, where exotic species of flowers were maintained. We turned the car onto the road that led to the summit and began our long climb upward.

Luhuitou. The name of this place translates into, “the deer turns back its head.” According to legend, a young hunter of the Li tribes was pursuing a deer through these very hills. He had begun the chase from the heights of the Five Finger Mountain and had followed his prey all the way to the shores of the South China Sea. When they arrived at the edge of the cliffs here, it was clear that the animal had become trapped. As the man drew back on the arrow on his bow, it is said that the deer stopped, tossed its head back, and then before the hunter’s very eyes, transformed into a beautiful Li woman.

Sometimes, when I hear a story like that, I would imagine myself going through the same experience, wishing that what had happened before like that for someone else, could again happen for me. Nothing fancy. Just a sign from Heaven. The Finger of God.

Well, this time, I did manage to get my wish, although at no point was there any trace of animate wildlife anywhere nearby.

***

Once we had entered the gates, we had to park our car and ascend the rest of the way on foot. It was going to be a twenty-minute hike to the top of the mountain to the main attraction, a thirty-foot high statue that had been erected to commemorate the legend of the place. Along the way, branching off from the main path, were other spots that were willing to take our money—the exotic flower garden and a small deer farm, or petting zoo, located right there next to it.

I was reading the sign at the zoo’s entrance, searching through the notice for a hint of the price of admission, before deciding on whether or not I should get coddled into yet another tourist trap. Fuguang stole up behind me and began reading the sign too.

“Doesn’t say…” I frowned.

“Doesn’t say what?” asked Fuguang.

“The price.”

Fuguang checked the sign again. “The garden is free…”

“I know. But it doesn’t say anything about the zoo.”

Fuguang nodded. He checked to his left and right. There was no one there at the gates where we were standing. Twirling around, he began marching back toward the main entrance. “I will go and find out!”