Euphoria.
It is the only way I can describe how it feels like to ride a wave. The visceral pull and never-ending tides of the ocean made even the worst of days seem like my birthday. Imagine the combination of water coursing through your skin, the sun radiating from the sky, and the sand that cleanses away all of your worries, leaving a bliss that seems like forever but ends abruptly.
Now picture, the world in the palm of your hands, watching it unravel itself right before your very eyes. Feeling the anticipation build up as the waves taunt you and challenge your existence yet letting the adrenaline take control. You're there, as vulnerable as ever, facing Poseidon's wrath but the platform underneath you is by your side saying, "hey we can do this." Your body is timid but your mind is a mile ahead and before you know it, you're riding a wave of a lifetime. Fear and doubt is out the window and the only thing surfacing is mountain-top experience that can only be achieved by surfing.
The roars from the shore, the colors of the sunset, and the taste of salt constantly sent my senses on overdrive. Nothing could beat the wind that ruffled my curls or the connection I felt with not only the sea but my surfboard. It was as if it was an extension of me, whatever I did, my handy fish board followed. Every slight weight-shift awakened it's body, making the impossible, possible. Despite the choppy one foot waves, sunburns that burned my skin to the crisp and brain damaging wipeouts, I always returned to the scene of the crime.
So yeah...Euphoric is the perfect way of describing how it feels like to surf.
All my other endeavors barely touched the feeling I got when I'm out catching waves. The world around me seemed mystical and while I was out there, facing true power, a sense of peace and solitude took over my body. I felt at ease as if I were invincible and no matter what was troubling me during the day, everything went away once my feet touched the sea. The un-conquerable would become conquerable and when I was introduced to one of the biggest waves in the west, I couldn't help but feel determination surge through me.
My father was a surfer. He waxed his board like clock-work, day and night, and sometimes when he deemed me as 'good', he would let me wax it myself. I was introduced to the surfing world at an early age by seeing his obsession littered all over our home. Photos, surfboards, wax kits and even decks of fiberglass he'd use to handcraft the boards that paid for the roof over our heads. 6 AM sharp, seven days a week for almost four hours a day, he claimed the sea as his.
Whenever I finished my homework on-time or summer break was among our midst, he would let me accompany him down to the shore. I would watch him with star eyes, wanting nothing more than to be out there, vanquishing the same waves. The way he maneuvered every wave like they were his own made everything seem as easy as 1,2,3. Settle waves, bright skies, tuna sandwiches and a carton of Hawaiian Punch were what made my childhood perfect. However, not everything was rainbows and sunshine and it wasn't everyday that my father was the man I admired out on the beach.
When times got hard and the kitchen counter were pilled high with bills, my father became a different man. He would change from the life of the party to a mean, hostile and physical man. The dark clouds that lingered above the Duncan household would last for weeks, sometimes even months, but when the clouds cleared, everything went back to normal. Although, my mother and I counted down the days, seeing them approach quicker as the years went by, we did nothing as if we were conditioned to behave that way.
So when my father found a red head two decades his junior, with a trust fund and a condo, he left, leaving behind his wife and seven year old son. Everything somehow got better and when my mom decided to leave everything behind, our house and belongings, we found a new home in Santa Monica, California.
A wave of adrenaline crashed over me and the sheer power of dominating the most powerful force of mother nature made me feel unstoppable. Just like any other day in my sixteen year old life, I was up, bright and early, ready to take on the perfect morning waves. The lukewarm water caressed my feet while the wind got tangled in my massive set of wet curls. Surfing was like second natural to me. Every second of my life was revolved around the ocean and honestly, I couldn't complain. I was in solitude. As I returned to the shore, I noticed a figure watching me from the distance. As I got closer, I realized it wasn't just any random person, it was Kendra.
Kendra was genuinely the most beautiful girl I had ever set eyes on and trust me, California has some of the most beautiful girls in the world. But Kendra was different. It was evident by the way she carried herself. Striking coal colored eyes that looked into the depths of your soul. Long jet-black hair that seemed to never frizz or lose its radiance and the most exhilarating smile that made all my worries vanish at one glance. Her velvety voice whenever she spoke or the way her face would scrunch up she smelled pickles. Simply everything about her was fascinating yet who was I to say such things. I am eternally biased.
My mother and I moved to Santa Monica when I was six and since then we've been best friends. Thanks to the fact that we were next door neighbors, we were pretty much inseparable growing up. Together, we would go to the beach, play for hours and return home with horrible sunburns and wrinkly skin. However that didn't stop us from going to the beach the next day and continuing our adventures. Nevertheless, as we grew older, she became the loved one in our schools and I became just like everybody else. I existed. It didn't change our friendship whatsoever and for that I was more than happy to be her best friend. We would hang out at random times and she would sleep over: vice versa. However, it was different now... because the little crush spiraled into something completely different. Something I just couldn't explain but I felt whenever she was or wasn't around.
"You're up early." Kendra spoke once I was at a close enough hearing range. She smiled at me as she laid on the cool beach sand.
I smiled down at her, "I should be saying the same thing to you."
"Touché, touché. Come sit with me. School doesn't start for a few more hours."
I did as I was told and sat down next to her, setting my surfboard beside me.
"The tides look great today. I wish I brought my surfboard." She pouted, taking a couple of glances at my board. I couldn't help but chuckle. I knew exactly where she was headed.
"They're always this amazing in the morning." I whispered, my eyes getting lost as I dazed at the sunrise.
"You know," She started, grabbing back my attention, "You're amazing out there."
I stared at her and realized how sincere she was. My heart fluttered, "I love it."
But I really love you....
She beamed her bright smile, "I could tell. Its like you're in your own world. It's truly amazing... You amaze me, Tony."
I got lost in her eyes and pictured how perfect we would be together. When reality set in and I realized who I was looking at, my eyes shifted to the floor. She's Kendra and I'm...I'm Tony.
"Want me to show you some of my amazing skills?" She smirked, jumping up from her spot. I followed her action, confused by what she just said. Yet it clicked when I remember her previous comment.
Kendra didn't wait for my answer. Instead she picked up my surfboard and dashed towards the beach, leaving behind my wandering eyes. I watched her as she claimed the sea as hers. As she rode every single wave as if they were her own. My eyes glittered as the ripples of water danced underneath my board with Kendra settling on its nose. I stood there, wondering if I looked as care-free and elegant as Kendra did. The smile molded on her face seemed eternal and I couldn't help but smile myself. I watched the ocean become one with Kendra, my heart exploding as it made its way towards me. Almost as if it was calling for me.
Almost as if it was mine.