When you make new friends
In a brand new town
The local airport of Corfu's main town, named after the famous Corfiot native Ioannis Kapodistrias, was surprisingly small despite its international status. But in Greece, almost every touristic island or region had its airport, at least one for domestic flights. The net was well built to ensure smooth ebb and flow of the millions of tourists each year. The tourism made up for lion's share of the country's GDP. So, there is no surprise that the covid pandemic with its travel-restriction hit the people in Greece very hard. After the long and painful crisis of previous years that brought the statal finances on the edge of a bankruptcy, this was another shock. However, now, here on the airport, there weren't any signs of decline. Indeed, even though the season was still not officially open, the plane arrived full with many obviously non-local passengers. Hopefully, the tourism and therefore the economy was finally on the tracks of recovery.
Dian picked up his checked suitcase and sit down in one of the airport's cafes for a cappuccino. He must find an accommodation. Lucky enough to arrive in low season, he could grab a free apartment near the historic centre for the next 7 nights using the Airbnb website. Then he will have to find something else or buy a flight ticket to his next destination...somewhere.
The booked apartment was in fact a whole flat in one of local's houses, easily accessible by the airport bus. Actually, how he found out, one could almost go by feet. Compared to European and Asian metropoles where you have to travel a minimum of one hour to reach the city from the terminal, this was almost an experience that one would pay for.
Once he put down his luggage in the corridor and looked around, he felt an unexpected warm feeling. The rooms with their old-fashioned furniture, shelves with Greek books and lace decorations laying here and there were giving the proof that this is, or at least was, a home for somebody. No sterile white room with anonymous pictures imported from eastern factories like all the hotels have. This place was welcoming.
The kind chatty host left him with tons of advices about the nearest attractions, prettiest beaches and towns, near-by restaurants, important websites, information about the bus terminal, city buses, historical centre and much more. Fortunately, Dian has a good memory.
At first, he considered to explore the town itself. The historical centre was listed on UNESCO world heritage list and was promising a great day out visiting two Venetian fortresses, local market, several orthodox churches, museums, local cuisine and confectioneries and and and... "Maybe too much for today", he concluded quickly.
There was another place that drew immediately Dian's attention when he googled out information about the island. A beautiful calm beach with crystal clear water embraced from both sides by cliffs with green vegetation on top. The area near the beach was mentioned as the second most beautiful right after the island's capital. Just how was its name again...?
"Pa-le-o-ka-stri-tsa", the host tried to teach Dian the pronunciation of the town's name before she left. Then she simply circled the name on the printed buses' timetable that she prepared for her guests. So, the bus runs every half an hour and the trip takes only 50minutes?
He could be there before midday.
Travelling this silver-green island was so calming that Dian was seriously considering to take one local bus line after another just to enjoy the hypnotizing vibration of the notoriously known Corfiot "Green" bus combined with the tranquil pictures outside. Packed fully with tourists, the vehicle made its daily routine like hundred or thousand times before, occasionally stopping here and there on unmarked bus stops that only the driver and the locals knew were there.
Leaving the crowds in its final stop in Paleokastritsa, the driver was on its way back with empty bus half an hour later. His recent passengers, blinded by the Greek midday sunlight, were blinking around till they realized that they are practically standing on "that" beach - the most photogenic beach of the island. Well, if one could see it behind the dozens of visitors that all were trying to catch the best shot. In any case, the place was by no doubt magical and swimming in the lagoon would be even better if the water wasn't still so cold.
„Hike to Lakones Donkey Path, hike to Lakones Donkey Path!" a young local guide was calling his clients together. Dian and some other curious tourists asked for more information.
„The hike leads from Paleokastritsa up to the old village of Lakones. You can decide to go to the Bella Vista pointview where you will have a breathtaking view over Paleokastritsa," the guide smiled back, but after another information that the hike is actually a hike, no donkeys included, half of the interested disappeared. And after the addition that it takes an hour up a relatively steep hill, the rest backed away.
„Still interested?" the guide smiled at the Asian boy, that looked he was not frightened by some physical exercise.
Dian nodded and looked up to the village on the hill: „This will take more than an hour", he thought, „but the view must be great."
And so two hours later: „Isn't the view great?" the guide was smiling at the sweating group of people that looked like they are going to end their Greek holiday right here and never come back again. He himself looked like he was having just a light walk around. The only other man standing was Dian, although, if he should be honest, another 15 minutes of climbing and it would finish him the same way.
He made himself proceed right away to the half an hour distant viewpoint Bella Vista instead of sitting down to take a rest in a taverna in Lakones. „Now, this is a view worth the torture," sighed Dian when the panoramic view over Paleokastritsa opened below him. He took out his camera and took his time to catch the dramatic green steep hills emerging from the blue depths of Ionian Sea. The famous Agios Spiridon Beach that attracted him to this place was actually just a small part of the nature's puzzle that made this part of the island so special. But to be revealed this secret, you can't stay laying on the beach or sitting in a cafe down in Paleokastritsa...
Now Dian could finally reward himself with a lunch.
„Excuse me, sir, what is that place, please?" he asked the waiter in the restaurant which view could compete with the Bella Vista itself, pointing on a steep hill with some ruins that was obviously guarding the northwestern coast for centuries.
„It is the castle of Angelokastro. Now there are just ruins, but once it was one of the three castles that protected the island. It saved the inhabitants mainly during Ottomans wars and it was never conquered," Dian got a lecture of local history, „I think I do not need to tell you that the view from that castle is great," the waiter chuckled, "when the weather is clear, you can see the Venetian fortress in Kerkyra."
* * *
"Seems like everything here is only half or hour away..." Dian commented waiter's time estimate of the trip to the castle after another almost two hours of walking an asphalt road and climbing a rocky path up to the castle in the ruthless sun. But he knew it was also his fault that he did not check properly on Google maps. Otherwise he would see that the "half an hour" ends on the foot of the hill so logically, there should be another time needed to get up to the fortress itself. But that is not important anymore - he already spotted the entrance gate into the fortification walls. Uff.
Inside he took a deep breath and drank the last deciliter of water he had. He should have bought more.
And the sun was burning hard. After the last month which he spent in Prague this was another reality. He should have checked the weather... He should have taken a cap... He should have planned the itinerary...
He promised himself to make an effort to always get familiar with the country he is exploring. He is not in the rainy central Europe anymore and he is not in a metropole where you can buy whatever you remember at whatever time of the day. Over all, he should not kill himself in the first day. A trip should be a pleasure not a torture.
Alright, now that he is up and breathing again, he could wander around the ruins with other individuals that did not die conquering this proud place in the modern way. Only after one finally gets up to this point he can truly understand why this fortress was never be defeated.
"Yes, the view is phenomenal. What else did I expect?" Dian smiled at his private joke while sliding the photos in his professional digital camera. He sat down in a small area of shadow, the only one he could find on this roof of the island. And it was there were he, looking on one perfect photo after another, got overwhelmed by the excitement that started at 2 o'clock in the morning in Athens when he got up from his bed thinking he will be in Chania in Crete at this time. Sipping a coffee... Exploring the town... He should have taken it easier today...taken some rest first...just for some minutes...now...
He was fighting, trying to keep his eyes open. But every time he opened them, the older man standing in front of him near the fortification wall, turned to look at him and made him sleep again. He remembered the old Greek man talking to a young boy. That could be a shred of a dream. But in the gloom of his mind he realized he never remembers anything from his dreams so this could well be a real picture. But who cares...in the end the tiredness took control over him completely and all the noises and pictures calmed down...
...till some English voice called him back: "Hey, are you alright? Hey, you'd better wake up...!" Dian could hardly open his eyes. Emerging from a deep sleep he could not face the light until the person over him did not block the strong sunrays with his body. Dian touched his hurting head. "I am sorry to wake you up but I think you sleep in the sun for too long already," the voice continued without any markable accent. Dian was still dizzy: "Pardon me...?"
"The sun is too strong today, you are sitting without a cap for almost 40 minutes...you could get a sunstroke.
"So long...I thought...five minutes..." Dian was getting his senses back. The human shadow finally took live form once Dian slowly got up to his feet to thank him: "Thank you, sir...for caring..." he automatically lifted his hands up in wai to show respect.
"Παρακαλώ, but you should drink some water and have some rest in the shadow before you go down. How are you feeling?" the young man did not end his worries.
"I am fine I think, thank you," Dian was feeling alright, at least so he thought in that moment.
"Hm, ok..." he was not convinced despite Dian's assurance. "I was about to go down to the parking area, I will accompany you if you do not feel well."
It was surprising that a stranger would worry so much about some lone boy he never met before.
But some of that species of humans must exist somewhere in the world so that they can write fairy tales and legends about them...
Is Corfu one of those places...?
"I think I should be fine soon, thank you again," Dian bent down to pick up his bag and camera but his head spun and he had to lean against the wall in order not to lose the balance.
"Please do not be offended, but now I will bring you safely down to the parking lot," decided the stranger without waiting for Dian's objections, when he saw that the boy was still not fit. Indeed Dian's head was further spinning and he felt disoriented.
"I am Thanos."
Dian lifted his sight to look into the face of the insistent young man.
"My name is Dian, nice to meet you...," all he could remember from that scene was a pair of azure blue eyes and the sudden stabbing pain in his forehead: "...and thank you for your help."
* * *
Dian should be feeling embarrassed that he bothers an unknown person with his poor condition. It was definitely all his fault in the first place - no basic equipment like a bottle of water or a hat and no proper planning resulting in today's several reckless decisions were all what brought him in this situation.
And, the worst thing about it? The absence of a strong will that would make Dian refuse Thanos' one-sided decision, that he will not let the disoriented foreign boy go down the rocky path alone.
Dian's consciousness was scolding him continuously but its voice was backed off by the unconscious need to watch carefully every step down on the uneven rocks below his feet.
Thanos was at his side the whole time like he was expecting Dian to faint any moment.
Dian's brain was telling him how shameful he was: "You could make it down from the castle alone. And then you could walk another half an hour to Bella Vista, and then another 30 minutes to Lakones and another hour down the donkey path to Paleokastritsa. To wait for the bus to Kerkyra... Look how pitiful you are wasting his time!"
His internal voice was trying to approve his decision, but it was hard to find a rational excuse. The good education tells us to offer help to anybody in need, but at the same time it requires us to refuse offered help if it is at least a bit possible. Do not bother anybody if there is a chance to cope with it alone.
But even after the pills finally suppressed his headache and his mind was a bit clearer now, he was not trying to apologize for causing troubles.
The fact that somebody was worried about him, may he be a stranger, was a surprisingly pleasant feeling.
As said before, Dian should be feeling embarrassed. But strangely, he felt he does not need to.
So, when Thanos insisted to take him to Paleokastritsa by car, Dian did not refuse.
And when Thanos stopped at the nearest shop to buy him a bottle of cold water, Dian did not pretend he is not dead thirsty and accepted it with an honest thank you.
Why should he pretend? It was not an action-movie-save-the-world-scene, but right now, a simple act like this made one exhausted boy feel much better.
But another contradictory thing they taught us hard is that one should repay the help that somebody gave us. Or worse, that words of thanks are not enough - you should give something in exchange.
So, subconsciously, when the time came for Dian to continue his path alone, he could not help himself, but to ask bluntly: "Can I offer you a meal as a thank you?"
"Absolutely not," stated Thanos swiftly to Dian's surprise while still looking into the side mirror after having parked on the street in front of a taverna in Paleokastritsa.
"There is nothing to thank about, it was a matter of course" he switched off the engine and turned to look at the pale face of the boy, that thought he offended the young Greek. "But I would voluntary accept a coffee if you like to have one too," Thanos added with a sincere smile. Dian stared in the radiating blue eyes a second too long before he automatically nodded in agreement.
A strange feeling of solidarity echoed inside him and a Czech phrase emerged in his head again after so many years: "Musíme si pomáhat." He remembered his father to often repeat it when he still lived with him and his mother. Only years later Dian finally looked up the meaning of the simple sentence, that had its equivalent in any language.
We must help each other.
The core of the humanity, confirmed by all cultures throughout centuries, but repressed nowadays as a weakness.
When they entered the taverna, Dian thought about the realization that people travel thousands of kilometers to experience a different culture while deep down we are all the same. The rest, like traditions, cuisine, way of life or visible attributes are just superficial.
"May I ask where are you from? Are you local or a tourist as well...?" Dian realized that he automatically thought that Thanos is a Greek but actually he had no clue why. Maybe it was the self-confident behaviour that distinguishes local inhabitants from the always-lost tourists. Or the casual cloths of black t-shirt and long jeans - compared to the tourists' mandatory uniform consisting of shorts and sleeveless t-shirt, preferably in beige colour.
"I am Greek, but not hundred percent local," Dian's guess was confirmed only partially and Thanos explained: "My father is from Crete, so I grew up there, but my mother is from here, so we spent the school holidays in Corfu."
"I was supposed to be in Chania now, but the aeroplane was suspended due to bad weather, so I thought I could see other part of Greece first," Dian did not understand why he smiled at the coincidence.
"Πεπρωμένο, destiny," Thanos returned him the smile, "Maybe we will meet in Chania as well. I live here now but I travel there a lot, my father still lives in our family house." Then he remained silent for a moment thinking if the destiny really exists. Because the delayed aeroplane from Crete that Dian mentioned, was probably the one that his father came with. He should have arrived already yesterday, but because of the delayed and cancelled flights, he could get a ticket via Athens only for today. He arrived at midday to Kerkyra and Thanos drove him to Paleokastritsa to meet a business partner and a friend of the family.
Dian was getting uncomfortable under Thanos' fixed sight so he tried to break the silence: "So, you made a Saturday's trip to Angelokastro...?" and wondered why the Greek boy found the question funny.
The truth was that Thanos was just about to recall the reason why he ended up in the middle of the castle's ruins: "The friend of my father was late for their meeting, so we decided to go there instead of sitting in a cafe. It is a long time my father was in Corfu, so he wanted to enjoy the famous view." Nothing uncommon in Greece, to arrive late, but one who believes could consider it another fragment of the fate.
"How long do you stay in Corfu?" sounded like an obligatory question for every foreigner on holiday, but Thanos was really interested in the reply.
"Depends. I ended up here by chance so I have no plan and it is still open. I found an apartment for a week, but then, as I understood, the high season starts so almost everything is fully booked." Thanos nodded. A feeling of disappointment, that he did not understand, appeared for an instant but before he could think about the reason, he heard himself offering Dian to take him by his car to Kerkyra.
Thanos saw the boy is hesitating so he hurriedly explained: "I live in Benitses, it is a coastal area few minutes south by car from Kerkyra. If you do not have other planes, I like to have company when I travel... It has only one catch and that is that it would take a bit longer, since I need to stop in Nissaki to handle some documents that my father gave me. He does not have time to go there because of his late arrival. We should be in Kerkyra in about hour and half..."
Dian took himself some seconds to reply, but he already knew he will accept. Why not? Again, he could do it back to Kerkyra all by himself, but why to refuse if somebody offers you help? And what's more, when you see that he would appreciate if you accept it.
Or when you actually appreciate his company although you cannot explain to yourself why...