As my husband and my two sons approached the threshold of Jvari Monastery, the sign made them halt. No shorts. Only modest attire.
Amidst all the tourists that flood the place, coming in droves on their buses, there are genuine worshippers. Inside the monastery, a black-robed orthodox priest sits, selling candles for the faithful. My husband and sons turn away. I whip out a green scarf, embroidered Georgian style with a colourful swirled pattern near the hem, cover my head and enter.
Jvari Monastery is not only a UNESCO World Heritage site but it sits on top of one of the mountains that surround the capital city of Georgia, Tbilisi. It is worth going to Jvari for the view alone. Two rivers converge below, the darker hue of one clearly visible and the informed tourist can spot the ancient city of Mtskheta amongst the more modern buildings of Tbilisi.
The monastery itself was built in the 6th century on the place where Saint Nino was reputed to put a large wooden cross. Nino is famous for being a female evangelist and is widely venerated in Georgia today. She converted both the Georgian Queen Nana and the pagan King Midian III of Iberia to Christianity. King Midian then made Christianity the official religion of Iberia.
The inside of the monastery is richly decorated in icons and items of religious significance, and is worth covering up to see.
Tips:
To enter the monastery, men should be wearing long pants and women need to wear a scarf on their head. If you have forgotten to bring one, you can borrow one hanging from the hooks on the left (under the watchful eye of the black robes Orthodox priest). It is possible for both women in miniskirts and men in shorts to drape a scarf around their legs to enter respectfully. I noticed some men did ignore the sign and strode in anyway and were seemingly not rebuked. Do remember it is a holy place for some Georgians. The atmosphere inside is reminiscent of an Orthodox Church complete with candles, icons and sacred objects.
Both times I have been there was a beggar at the gate. Expect to be asked for money from them.
This time there was a pop-up market selling trinkets and souvenirs outside on the road where the buses and cars park but I saw no food or drink for sale. It is hot there in summer so bringing your own bottle of water wouldn't go astray.
Don't just enter the monastery, explore the ruins around it.
The highlight for my son, who couldn't enter the monastery because he was wearing shorts, was seeing a large lizard scurry up a wall.
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