The Hamam

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Morocco's known for its traditional hamam, or "public bath". It's resembles a sauna but more spacious and people actually bathe there. Despite the authentic experience, I personally prefer just showering at home because it's less time consuming and tiring. Not to mention I hate the walk back from the hamam to our house in shower shoes. However, this time, I agreed to go with a group of cousins because there was a family member's wedding the next day and people like to get ready together. As usual, we all payed at the door and then undressed in the dressing room. Everyone needs to bring their own supplies from home, or else they need to purchase them from the "front desk." (It looks way less fancy than described). Generally, everyone is completely naked (unfortunately). However, teenagers and little kids who still feel self-conscious keep their underwear on. We were looking for a spot that wasn't as crowded or loud as the rest but was still warm and close to the faucets. We eventually found an empty area and proceeded to unpack and fill our buckets. I decided I wanted to move across from where my cousins were to give them some space but also because my hair is extremely long and I didn't want it to suffocate the girls around me. I started to apply deep conditioner to my hair, when all of a sudden I hear a lady shouting from across the hamam "get out of my spot!!" I was so confused, but at the same time also embarrassed because of all the eyes on me. Yes, I understand it's a public bath and I'm asking for my privacy to be violated, but there's such a strong sense of vulnerability that comes with being caught mid-action naked. She was walking towards me with the intention of "kicking me out" of her space. The woman looked to be in her mid-20's with tattoos on her shoulders and deep knife scars decorating both arms. Keep in mind, Morocco is a very conservative country and even tattoos on men are looked down upon. 

"THIS IS MY SPOT!" she barked

"Well that's  funny. Last time I checked this was a PUBLIC bath." I thought I was so smart as I walked away. I turned to one of my cousins, expecting her to laugh. She just had wide eyes. In fact, the whole place was dead silent, with women paused mid-way while combing their coarse, hanna-dyed hair. 

The woman looked like she was about to pounce on me. From the corner of my eye, I saw her mother get up, as if she knew her daughter's temper and this was a daily occurrence.

"I SWEAR TO GOD I'LL BEAT HER UP! I'LL SLASH HER FACE WITH A RAZOR, THAT'S WHAT I'LL DO!" (note that there are multiple razors are available where people are in the process of showering) Another thing: apparently cutting someone's face with a razor is a very common form of violence in Morocco, to the point where they have an entire verb in the dictionary for it. (Sharatha = I will slash her face with a razor)

At that point, her mother had grabbed her already and was begging her to calm down and go back to where they were. I was just sinking as far as I could, contemplating whether to drown my head in a bucket of water before that cow would get to me.

TO BE CONTINUED



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