Morocco Diary

Morocco Diary - First day - March 4

Lunch: Bread and olives were on the table. First course was a saffron-colored fish soup served with flavored mayo, croutons, and shredded cheese. This was followed by a splendid plate of simply prepared fish: two grilled, whole, fresh sardines and two skewers of a flavorful white fish (Aziz did not know the English name), also grilled. This was accompanied by rice with raisins, barley with parsley in a tomato, and sautéed, julienned carrot and squash. Dessert: crème caramel. This was topped off with delightfully refreshing mint tea served in short glasses.

After lunch, we set off on foot to explore the walled city of Rabat, the capital of Morocco and one of the country’s four imperial cities. The city was founded in the 12th century. The fort here was the starting point for jihad against Spain. The city’s name is derived from the Arabic Ribat al-Fath, or “Camp of Victory.” After 1609, it became home to a large number of Andalusian Moors who had been driven out of Spain. It later became a pirate stronghold, base camp for the Sallee Corsairs, the most dreaded of the Barbary pirates. (Barbary comes from Berber, which in turn comes from the Roman “barbar”—the sound of a wild animal, and the source, also, of the word barbarian.)

Walking tour of Rabat’s medina (Muslim Medieval town/walled city) and its central kasbah.

Cemeteries are traditionally near the gates of walled cities, and Aziz pointed out the extensive ones near Rabat’s gates.

We wandered through narrow, labyrinthine alleyways, delighting in the beauty, antiquity, and glimpses of traditional life. There was a lot of blue on exteriors, which, Aziz told us, is meant to ward off evil. The heavy, interesting doors were covered with symbols to ward off evil, such as the hand of Fatima or scissors (to cut off evil). Aziz explained that no windows face outwards, onto the street, because if people saw your stuff, they might envy you, so this wards off the evil of envy.

Through the kasbah, or palace, and into the riad, or garden. A riad should include sound (fountains, birds) and color (flowers and fruit). This riad, ringed by high, crenellated walls, accomplished these goals, with tiled fountains, lawns dotted with flowers, and trees filled with the brightest oranges I’ve ever seen.

I was startled when I was approached by women with large hypodermic needles, but then realized after my first unfavorable reaction that they were simply selling henna designs.

Past wood carvers and rug sellers, beaches and hotels, and at last, back to the van, where Barb and I were introduced to the driver, Omar, and his assistant, Munsef.

Next stop, Archaeological Museum. Gorgeous antiquities—Neolithic, Carthaginian, Roman—a small museum, but choice objects.

While in the museum, I could hear the exotic sound of the call to prayer outside.

Then we headed for Marjane, a magnificent grocery (and everything else) store. Mountains of fruit, veggies, fresh fish, and olives; bins of spices, herbs, and couscous; miles of local and imported exotica—just great. Barb and I took a couple of photos before an employee told us we must stop. But that’s probably just as well. Don’t want to use too much film in a grocery store—even an impressive one. We bought some goodies for the children of the families we will visit for the home-hosted meals that lie ahead, as well as some wine for while we’re in the Sahara, plus I got some garlic and cilantro bouillon cubes, as I’ve never seen them back home.

To the hotel—Le Dawliz. Fabulous place: tiles, brass, wood—and our room is huge, with a large balcony with a view (palms, a river, green fields—just lovely), and a green and white-tiled bathroom the size of my bedroom at home. Simply splendid.

We had 45 minutes to freshen up, then at 6:15, we met in the conference room for a presentation on the status of women in Morocco. Our lovely, young presenter, Amina, works for an American company. She was educated in Rabat.