Reptile care and information

By dragongirl2222

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Here's a collection of research I have done as well as my own experiences as a reptile own. In here you will... More

Herpetology vs herptoculture and other terminology
The do's and don'ts of reptile owning
Ball python care sheet
Ball python breeding project
Collard lizard
Fire skink
Flame bellied girdled lizard Smaug mossiambiscus
Vietnamese blue beauty rat snake
Brahminy Blind snake
Every reptile I own

Beginner reptiles- so you want to own a reptile?

166 6 8
By dragongirl2222

Alrighty guys in this chapter I will be talking about so basic beginner reptiles that are easy to care for. Along with some tips. I will be writing more detailed care sheet on these species, so I'm only giving you the basic info of each in the chapter.

Beginner snakes
Ball python

These are great super calm snakes, very easy to handle and care for! I keep all of mine in plastic bins. Ball pythons are know for their pickiness when it comes to eating, so make sure you ask the breeder what they are feeding on and the last time they ate before purchase.

Corn snake

Corns are a bit more active than ball pythons and will need more handling to keep them calm and friendly. Not very picky when it comes to eating, will really take frozen thawed mice, I've even seen some people give them quail eggs

King snake

There are several species of King snake. Some get larger than others, do your reassure on what species of King interests you. Personally I recommend Mexican black King snake as they don't get to big and can easily be kept in 30 gallon tank.

Sand boa

A rather odd looking snake that does not grow very big. A 20-30 gallon tank is perfect for housing one. The spend most of their time buried under sand. Very easy to handle and very unlikely to get bit.

Hognose snake

Small sized snake that can be kept on 20 gallon tank. Fairly easy to handle and work with, keep in mind though they have a very mild venom similar to a bee sting.

Lizards, skinks and geckos
Bearded dragon
Easy to care for, needs at least a 40 gallon as an adult. Uvb lights are a must or your lizard will get MBD and die. Needs a diet of bugs and veggies. Low humidity.

Collard lizard

Despite being fairly small, this species needs a larger cage as they are very active. I house 3 in a 50 gallon. Never keep more than one male together. Needs uvb.

Fire skink

Tropical and love high humidity. Spend most of their time buried under soil, so make sure to have a lot of substrate for your animal to burrow. Male/female pairs can be housed together. Bad swimmers so only give the shallow water dish. Very easy to handle. Needs uvb

Leopard gecko

Desert gecko species. They are nocturnal and don't need UVB light. Easy to care for and handle. Eats insects. A 20 gallon is good for one.

Crested gecko

Tropical gecko, prone to losing their tails from stress. Super easy to handle but may be jumpy. Eats fruit and insects. 20 gallon tall tank is good for one. They are terrestrial. A lot of debating on with UVB is needed for them. But having it won't hurt.

Uromastyx

An unusual lizard from Africa. Likes very hot dry climates. Eats only vegetables and fruit. Do not feed bugs as it will cause liver failure

Blue tongue skink

Native to Australia. Likes dry hot climates. Likes to dig, burrow and hide under things. 30 gallon think is good for 1. fairly easy to handle if worked with frequently. Some tend to have aggressive behavior.

Extra tips and advise ^.^
THE MOST IMPORTANT THING IS DO YOUR RESEARCH!!!!! Don't ever buy an animal before thoroughly researching its care requirement. Keep in mind not all the info on the Internet is accurate, so make sure you contact a knowledgeable breeder or some one with experience. Their are lots of Facebook groups decimated to owning of certain reptiles. For example ball python enthusiast are a great group to join if your interested in ball pythons.

Do NOT buy an animal if you are financially unable to pay for its needs and possible vet visits.

UVB light might be a bit expensive but is 100% necessary for the health of most reptiles. With out it they can't process calcium and thus become deprived of that necessary mineral resulting in deformities, broken bones, other possible health issues and death. Most nocturnal animals do not need UVB. UVB light is not the same a heat lights!!!!!!

When feeding your animals makes sure the that insects they are eating are well feed before hand to maximize the nutrients your reptile is getting. You can feed crickets and meals worms a variety of veggies, high protein dog food and potatoes.
Calcium and vitamin supplements show be offered at least 3 times a week, more so for juvenile animals.

Make sure your tank lid is secured with clips to prevent escapes. Snakes are excellent escape artists and push the lid up and get out.

Wash your hands before and after handling your animal to prevent to spread of possibly harmful bacteria, Like salmonella.

Products to avoid using.
Reptile carpet: never ever use this. It collects and hold bacteria really easily and can make your animal sick
Reptichip- it's not recommended because it tends to stain animal bellies a redish color: Some alternates are coco fiber, cypress mulch, chemical and fertilizer free organic soil, aspen bedding.
Calci-sand: it's supposed to prevent imp action when accidentally eaten but really doesn't help at all. Avoid using colored sand. If you are going to use sand I recommend regular silica free play sand.
Heat rock: never ever use these as they frequently over heat and severely burn your reptiles.

Authors note: Alrighty  I think I covered all the basics. May go back in and edit in other stuff later. If you have any questions or concerns please feel free to message me ^.^

Credits
Some of the photos do not belong to me, as I don't own some of the animals I will be talking about. This don't have my own pictures of them. I got them off the Internet. Photos that are from the internet I included the web/ what ever words were under the picture.

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