Why I surf.
I surf, because I love it. If you didn't love it, you wouldn't do it. Plain and simple. I tried skim boarding. I ate it hard and now I don't. If you surf, you are part of a sort of brotherhood. Sure you have your locals, and your posers, your kooks and your old timers. But really, anyone who's ever stood up on a wave and felt this energy in water, a board under your feet, and that ever so kooky smile on your face, knows what it's all about. It's fun, it's pure fun. Stoke, there's no other way to describe it, really. Only a surfer knows the feeling. That was an old Billabong slogan. Now it's 'Life's better in Boardshorts', two of the most true words I've ever heard. Surfing is kind of like explaining color to a blind person, or sound to a deaf, it's just different, amazing, and just awesome. Sure, you can go skate, snowboard, whatever you like to do. It's all fun too. But surfing, is like, skateboarding, mixed with heaven. You get pounded. You eat it hard. You smack the water, you get thrown over the falls. Then you go out and do it again. Maybe eat it again. And again. And again. But then, you get that wave, you pull into the tube, or on the open face of the wave, or even getting pushed around in the whitewater. It's all surfing. It's all stoke. And that makes everything worth it. That 5:00 wake up, the cold, soaking wetsuit you unwillingly slid into earlier. It's all good now. That girl you can't get over , that test you failed on, that job you have to go to, that enemy at school. It all doesn't matter in the water. It's you, the water, and hopefully a couple buddies. In the water, all you think of is getting that next wave. Maybe paddle a little harder, go a little deeper, maybe try a cutback, off the lip, get worked in a close out tube. Its pure joy. Who cares what the weathers like, sure the sunset seshes with the dolphins jumping out just past the lineup make you appreciate it even more, those morning freezing January sessions are even better in a way that nothing else can beat. My very first surfing wave was a whole ago, a small as can be whitewash. But it was still great. You don't have to be white, black, brown, yellow, blue, green or purple to be a surfer. You just have to do it. I love it, most people do. That's why i surf. Sure, at first you do it for the chicks. Because you're cool. Because, you get to party with the surfer kids. Then, you do it because it rocks. Because you're a better person. Because it becomes you and water, not you and cement, I don't know. I'm not gonna say some deep shit like it makes you feel at one with nature. But it does.
I surf, because it makes me a better person on land.
Haha nobody will read this but I'm bored.