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RUOU BIM BIP NE ANH E OI

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But khao cua Le van Lan

Nhung toa RU?U THU?C

ngam tu nhung ran, ha nam, cac ke den Ngu tuu Minh Mang thang

Sau hon 20 nam xa xu, toi moi ve lai Viet Nam. Mot dieu dap vao mat toi la nhung quay hang ban day nhung thau lon ruou thuoc ngam tai nhung goc pho . Nhung thau ruou tam xa tuu, ngu xa tuu voi nhung con ran nam gon tron trong thau lam toi co mot cam giac ghe ron.

Dan Viet nam phan lon can gao an de no bung hon la can ruou thuoc de nham nhi. Nhung biet dau ruou thuoc cung can thiet cho suc khoe cua nguoi dan khi phai can cu lao dong de kiem mieng an nhat la thuoc ngoai rat mac tien. Lao dong nhieu thi thuong gay ra chuyen dau lung va met moi, ruou thuoc can la do vay chang! Hay la hoac gia, hoi men lam cho nguoi dan quen thuc tai dang cay nhu nan nghien ruou rat tram trong tai nuoc Nga va cac xu �ong Au thoi Cong san.

Tuy nhien, o kia, toi lai thay ban rat nhieu chai ruou thuoc dan nhan la Ngu Tuu o cac gian hang quoc doanh hay o cac phi truong. Ruou nay quang cao la dua vao nhung bai thuoc goi la �Minh Mang thang�, noi tieng than sau la � Nhat da luc giao sinh ngu tu�. Khong ly gi nguoi dan ca ngay lao dong, moi ca song lung nhuc ca vai the ma moi dem ngu luc giao co ma chau ong ba som. Toi danh ket luan ruou thuoc Minh Mang chinh la danh cho nhung can bo, no com am cat, dam dat vui say!

Nhin lai qua khu, toi thay uong ruou thuoc la mot trong nhung truyen thong am thuc cua dan ta. Ngheo nhu Uy vien tuong cong Nguyen cong Tru luc con han nho, anh hung vi ngo the ma ngay Tet ngoai vai chiec banh chung leo teo, cung khong bo qua mon ruou thuoc:

Tet nhat nam ni ai noi ngheo,

Ngheo ma lich su do ai theo

Banh chung chat chat chung ba chiec,

Ruou thuoc ngam day do nua sieu!

Giong tho khoa truong nao la �chat chat� va �ngam day�, nhung thuc te chi la �ba� chiec banh va �nua� sieu ruou! Nhung thoi bo qua cai giong an noi canh ve cua ke han nho, toi xin moi qui doc gia di vao thien but khao nay de tim hieu sau xa ve chuyen uong ruou thuoc.

Ruou la mot thu thuoc lau doi nhat cua nhan loai. Hay chiet tu chu Y la nguoi thay thuoc trong chu Nho, ta thay do la mot nguoi phu thuy dung cung ten, giao mac ban ma qui va dac biet dung ruou la chinh nen ta thay chu Tuu nam duoi chu Y. Trong bai but khao nay, toi xin lan luot di tu truyen thong ngam ruou thuoc cua Viet Nam, roi duyet qua nhung mon ruou thuoc pho thong nao dan ta quen uong, cung la tra cuu bien khao ve nhung toa thuoc ruou cao cap hon de tam bo, hay de tri nhung chung binh noi tang nhu yeu than, liet sinh ly .( Nhung toa ruou thuoc de tri song truong tho cua cac dao si va tri su trat da trong nghe vo nhu mon phai Thieu lam se trinh bay ky toi.)

Truyen thong ngam ruou thuoc cua dan Viet

Dan Viet ta biet uong ruou tu thoi thuong co, chang phai la hoc cua Trung Hoa nhu sach Linh Nam chich quai chep: � Hoi quoc so, dan ta lay vo cay lam ao... dung gao Tri lam ruou...� Chu nom �ruou� va chu Han �tuu�, nghe am rat tuong can nhu anh huong nhau nhung chua biet chu nao co truoc day! Dan thieu so Truong son ngay nay van lay mot loai re cay gia ra lam dieu to len men cho ruou can. Cu nhu su sach nhu An Nam chi luoc, Van Hien thong khao, ruou duoc dung trong cung vua khi tiec yen nhu chuyen Cu thai hau bay tiec ruou de am hai tuong Lu Gia, hay chuyen vua Le Hoan va vua Tran Anh Tong ghien ruou.

Theo cuon Viet Nam phong tuc ma Phan Ke Binh viet vao dau the ky 20: �Ruou thi nau toan bang gao nep, u men roi cat ra. Trong thu ruou ay hoac uop them hoa sen, hoa cuc, hoa hong, hoa cau, hoac hoa nhai v.v.. goi la ruou hoa; hoac tam voi cac vi thuoc bac goi ra ruou thuoc. Ruou hoa qui nhat la ruou sen, ruou cuc, ma ruou thuoc qui nhat la ruou sam nhung.� ( tr. 353)

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